Kleiner Watzmann SW Ridge

Approach

You start like described in Wieder-Route and acend the impressive Watzmannkar. Before reaching the characteristically obelisk of Watzmann-Child IV (between Grosser Watzmann and Kleiner Watzmann there are 5 peaks, the "Children of king Watzmann", the biggest is child IV ("Watzmannjungfrau") you take the poor path through scree under the monumental W-wall of Kleiner Watzmann. Ascending always diagnoal under the rocky walls, you'll find small ledges leading you without difficulties through the steep face into the deep notch between Kleiner Watzmann and child I (Watzmannscharte).
From here you have a wonderful view in Watzmann coomb, towards the northern part of E-face of Watzmann, and your goal, the SW ridge of Kleiner Watzmann is growing out of your stand. In a few minutes you can reach from here the child I in easy climbing.

Route Description

Now you follow always the ridge in nice climbing (mostly UIAA I-II). The ridge is very exposed and free, the rock quality not perfect but good (rough limestone). In the upper part comes a short overhanging section, you can pass exposed and a bit strenuous right from the edge (there are 2 pitons) or left from the corner (the right variation is probably better - I know only this possibility).
Now you reach in few minutes a pre-summit with grass, traversing 50 m and keeping to the right you find a couloir which leads in 10 minutes in nice climbing and very good rock to the summit.
If you are a good climber, you can directly ascend the edge on fine slabs (UIAA IV+).

If weather is good, make a long recreation break on the summit. The panorama is a perfect dream, you see all of the numerous summits of Berchtesgaden Alps, the impressive Grosser Watzmann stands in front of you with his characteristical face consisting in nearly horizontal ledges and ramps, broken by short wall sections. And you will have a wonderful calmness - whereas on Grosser Watzmann hundreds of hikers and climbers are "working".

If you have rested enough, you descend like on the traverse described over the N ridge or the E ridge - both are very nice to climb.

You find informations in german language in this guide
(not listed by amazon.com):
Schöner / Kühnhauser, Berchtesgadener Alpen, guide of the german alpine club (Deutscher Alpenverein (DAV)). Comprehensive presentation of ascends in the mountain range of Berchtesgaden (all difficulties). Contents: Massifs of Hochkalter, Watzmann, Göll, Lattengebirge, Reiteralm, Hagengebirge, Steinernes Meer and Untersberg.
Published by Bergverlag Rudolf Rother GmbH, Munich. ISBN 3-7633-1127-0, 22,90 Euro.
My last information: you can get this book in U.S.A. too (www.amazon.com)

Essential Gear

Good climbers ascend this route without rope, "normal" climbers are grateful for belaying. There are some elder pitons but only 1 bolt. A helmet is necessary! Helpful are some slings and nuts.

Miscellaneous Info

The first climb of this route was in 1895 (W.Teufel), he was descending from the summit. No more then 24 years later ascended the first person this nice ridge. Also in our days not many climbers use this route, incomprehensible because of its charm. But perhaps this is good so!

Images

View Kleiner Watzmann SW Ridge Image Gallery - 9 Images