Kamps Ridge

Approach

From Wasatch Blvd take 3800 South east from Wasatch Blvd. At the stop sign, take a right on Park View Drive. After several changes in direction on this road, take a left on Park Terrace, and then a right on White Way, which leads to the Neff's Canyon trailhead parking lot.

Follow the trail to a dirt road that passes a large water tank. Follow the road 1/2 mile (10-15 minutes) to a junction at a stream crossing. The left route heads up Neff's Canyon and the right goes up North's Fork. Take a right here, crossing the stream, then follow the trail which goes from well defined to fairly obscure following stream beds. After another 1/2 mile (10-15 minutes) a smaller drainage/gully comes in from the right. This drainage leads up to Kamp's Ridge and the Great Chimney. Follow this drainage up to some tricky scrambling up polished rock. We climbed up some lower 5th class stuff on the rock to the right to avoid a slippery waterfall. From here, hike up on the right side of some slabs up to the start of Kamp's Ridge on the left.

Route Description

Climbing up to the ridge from the gully is a little tricky because you are climbing up dirt, lose rock, and through trees/bushes.

**We climbed around the lower part of the ridge to a parallel rock ridge just on the over side of Kamp's Ridge. We went up this for a couple hundred feet then climb down and over to Kamp's Ridge. This worked out well for us.

Once on the ridge the climbing is straightforward. Just follow the ridge up. Just before you get to the Great Chimney there is a small drop so head straight across to the top of the chimney (you should be able to see the anchors for the Great Chimney). Just after the Great Chimney the ridge becomes more difficult than the 5.6 rating. To get past this section you traverse a small ledge on the north face to a small tree. Then there is a crack that goes back up to the ridge.

Descent
For all possible descent routes you want to have webbing/slings and rap rings. The guidebook says to descend east down a gully from the north summit. We climbed back down the ridge to the top of a two-bolt anchor for the Valhalla climb. This rap route takes two ropes. We only had one rope so we had to do some scary down climbing down steep lose rock and we also set up some addition slings for rappelling. It is also possible to rap the Great Chimney, but I don't know if one or two ropes are required.

Essential Gear

There are 3-5 short (1/2 pitch or less) sections that you may want to use protection. The possibilities for placing pro are good. A light rack is all that is needed; a couple slings, set of nuts, and a couple cams.

Images

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