Jaws II, 5.10b, 3 Pitches

Overview/Approach

Jaws II gets a recommendation in Handren’s guide on the page it is found but fails to get listed in the recommended list in the back of his book.  I am sure, like many Red Rock routes, he has not climbed it or has any idea what it is or isn’t.  It is not a worthy route to climb, unless like myself, you have climbed out the park for the most part, at this grade level.  It is soft for 5.10b even by Red Rock standards.  It is difficult to define a 5.10- move on the entire route, but the poor rock quality and run out chimney section adds enough intrigue to keep many 5.9/5.10 climbers on their toes.  There are three wide routes side by side up canyon from Olive Oil and One-Armed Bandit: Jaws II, The Deep, 5.9 and Finding Nemo, 5.9.  They are located across from and just down slope from the Jungle Wall which features some stellar 5.11 sport routes.  In contrast to the heavily varnished north facing Jungle Wall, the south facing rock on Jaws’ side of the canyon is deterioating with suspect holds.

The first pitch is a secure and easy solo, if a competent 5.10 climber, up a left facing corner.  It ends in the bottom of the wide chimney that begins the 200’ main pitch of the route.  The crux pitch involves run out chimney climbing below the grade (5.9) before finally placing gear in chossy cracks that arch over to an eventual roof pull on chossy holds to a finger/hand crack up a left facing corner yet again.  Near the top of the corner it widens to easy chimney on much better rock for the finish.  This last section of the 2nd pitch is run out on easy terrain to the outside or a squeeze protected with large gear inside.  You finish on top at a ledge below a chossy face above.  The last pitch is run out face climbing, mid 5^th at most, to a left facing corner that leads to the very top of Olive Oil, via the left side of the same feature that Olive Oil tops out on.  Walk off as for Olive Oil.

Park at the Pine Creek Trailhead or Oak Creek, 50-50 as to which approach is less effort.  Hike into the canyon between Jackrabbit Buttress and Rose Tower as you would for Olive Oil.  Pass under Olive Oil and continue up the brush choked canyon on the right side.  Jungle Wall divides the canyon higher up, stay right.  The obvious, overhang looking, wide chimney above on the right is Jaws II.  Best to haul your shoes up the route and leave your packs at or near the descent gully for Olive Oil before entering the canyon unless you plan on doing multiple routes.  It is difficult to set a gear rappel on Jaws II that gets you back down to climb the other routes to the left. It would be difficult to retrieve your gear anchors as they are too far apart regarding these three routes.  One theory I have is that you could gain a sloping ledge above all the routes and rap down at its lower end (west) off a tree back into the approach gully, hike downslope, climb again.

3 Pitches, 415'

1^st Pitch- 115’-5.6/ Climb the corner, staying right at the tree and then back left into the corner main.  Easy for the grade if competent and will not need much if any gear.  Much of the wide gear called for in the guide will be for this and the final easier chimney section of the 2^nd pitch.  MP.com has 60’ for this first pitch which makes no sense.  Go to the bottom of the chimney at 115' where there will be a nice comfortable belay with a slung block and small to medium gear.

2^nd Pitch- 200’-5.10b/ Soft for the grade, but a chossy and run out chimney makes up for it.  Stay out wide for easy chimney moves until the rock gets so bad, you are better served to go in right and climb a closed shallow corner deep in the chimney so you can get gear in the cracks above.  To avoid horrific rope drag, make sure to extend any piece extra long until you are turning out of the chimney into the upper corner proper.  The rock is choss the whole way but you do get some gear as you traverse back left and to the roof pull out of the chimney where you get decent gear in comparison to anything you placed up to this point.  Continue up the fingers and hand corner, with no real move at the grade.  It opens wide again and the rope drag can be bad at this point if you did not use double ropes and/or did not extend your gear below.  Stay out left in the upper (much better rock than the chimney below) chimney for easier climbing to the top, or if you prefer, stay right in the squeeze with large gear if you brought it.  You end up atop the pinnacle at a comfortable ledge and medium gear belay. 

3^rd, Pitch- 100’-5.6/ MP.com has this pitch at twice as long as it is for some reason.  Climb the easy face above to a left facing corner and climb it to a ledge where you meet up with the top of Olive Oil . Medium gear belay. 

Climbing Sequence

Descent

Walk off as for Olive Oil.  I have explored trying to rap the route so I could do the other wide routes in this area and found nothing viable.  However, one could explore a 4^th class, somewhat exposed, traverse west across the upper face (after topping out at the notch that gains the descent gully for Olive Oil) and sling a tree at the end of the traverse to do a single rap back into the gully.  Could also no doubt gain elevation up to the top of the gully between Jungle Wall and Rose Tower and descend back to the starts of these routes.

Essential Gear

The local guide book and MP.com both discussed a double to #4, single #5 and #6.  If I did it again, I would take a single to C4#4 and few offset cams or wires.  Anywhere you needed a #5 or #6 was relatively easy climbing.  The crux pitch is run out in the chimney section regardless of what you brought for gear.  Double ropes are essential re rope drag if you are going to want to protect that chimney well.  Thinner ropes will take the turn out of the chimney into the upper corner with better rope drag than a typical single would.  Southwest facing wall, but the first two pitches should remain shaded most of the year.