Infintite Patience

Approach

Go to Berg Lake and up the Mist Glacier to base.

Route Description

Emperor Face, right side, F.A. Eric Dumerac, Barry Blanchard, Philippe Pellet last October. Basically climb up to the base which is under a prominent gully on the right side of the Emperor Face. Climb steep ice to gain main gully, climb a few mixed pitches and bivy at top left side of gully. Climb several pitches up a narrowing gully to a traverse left and several more moderate mixed pitches. These lead to ice smears that gain the top of the Emperor Ridge and bivy. Climb up and left of the ridge in superb mixed chimneys that gain the summit ridge and then follow ridge past some gargoyles to a prominent ice ledge that traverses W face to Wishbone arrete. Climb across right on this ice traverse ledge directly under summit ridge. The when almost at Wishbome arrete find a steep funnel that leads to the summit in 3 pitches. We bivied on the summit after 20 hours the last day. Descended to Forrester Hut.

Essential Gear

Small rock rack, screws, pins

Miscellaneous Info

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Images

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