Heaven's Gate

Overview

This three pitch sport route on the Upper Town Wall is truly stellar. One of a number of routes put up in the last ten years that are not found in Sky Valley Rock, Heaven’s Gate is a true modern classic. Either because of its more recent establishment or because it is a sport route, the grade is not the typical Index sandbag, and the crux is arguable the 10c approach pitch.

Approach

Follow the Upper Wall trail from The Country past the turn offs to the Mid Wall to where it terminates around the base of the Davis-Holland and Town Crier, continue left past the Sport Wall (several 5.12 bolted lines). Look for a prominent overhanging off-width (11b), Lamplighter follows the line immediately right of it.

Route Description

In order to reach pitch 1 one must climb the first pitch of Lamplighter, 5.10c, gear to three inches. Expect burly, peculiar moves through a broken, overhanging chimney-like feature, followed by delicate thin crack climbing up and to the right.

Pitch 1 - Pull a small roof and continue straight up the face on small, often in-cut, crimps. (11-)

Pitch 2 - Follow the bolt line to near the base of the next roof, two distinct cruxes but good rest stances in between, ends at a sizable ledge. (10+)

Pitch 3 - Climb up and left from the ledge and through a steep slabby section to the first roof, which is fairly straightforward, the second is much harder, with sharp, crystallized holds, easy climbing leads to the top of the Upper Town Wall. (11+)

Essential Gear

Small rack to 3” for Lamplighter, which can be left at the anchors, one 70m rope will get you down in four rappels, alternately you could walk off if so inclined.

External Links

Index Weather

Images

View Heaven's Gate Image Gallery - 3 Images