Grand Central, 5.10a, 6 Pitches

Overview/Approach

The FAer’s give this route a PG 13 grade (makes zero sense) and even more surprising a III alpine grade???  The approach is 30 minutes, so is the descent and the climb itself is straight forward following mostly bolts on easy slab.  This route does not qualify for Alpine II, much less III.  It is equivalent to climbing West Crack on Daff Dome in length and time.

The first three pitches are rather non-descript following whitish slab and intermittent corners and cracks up the north buttress.  These three pitches receive ample sun in the morning hours of July.  The fourth pitch follows a ramp/corner utilizing some trad gear and sets you up for the most interesting pitch of the climb.  The 5^th pitch could have taken a splitter finger above a roof for an exceptional lead on this route.  However, the route instead dodges the initial portion of that crack by heading out right, following bolts, and breaking over the roof at its narrowest end on slab and then trending back left into it.  The crack peters out and then you climb straight up face (crux of the pitch) to a broad ledge with a fixed belay out left.  The 6^th pitch is supposedly the crux and probably is for sport climbers, but it is short lived.  Climb the left facing, just slightly overhung, short corner and mantle out of it.  More 5.9 than 5.10a in Yosemite, and only for a meter or two.  Then the climb is essentially finished even though it looks like an extra bolt could have extended this pitch up the short steep cracks on the final headwall above.  Instead, the route, as of 2020, has you walk off right and back left to the top of the formation. 

Hike up the John Muir trail as you normally would for Eichorn Pinnacle.  After 30 minutes +/- (just over a mile), you will see the north buttress of Cathedral Peak which is essentially a separate formation from Cathedral.  Cut across southeast to the northern toe of the formation and look for a massive cairn (2020) and locate the bolted slab above.  The start is maybe 150’ from the John Muir Trail. 

Route  Description

1^st Pitch- 165’-5.7/ These first three pitches offer easy slab climbing to set you up for three more interesting pitches to finish.  Start (at a good-sized cairn in 2020) at twin low angled cracks just left of a right facing flake corner and climb the slabs in any which direction, but mostly aim straight up and ahead.  Once you clip your first bolt, step up and right (5.7) to a bolted anchor above a ledge with another bolt just above. 

2^nd Pitch- 150- 5.8/ Did not sense the 5.8 climbing on this pitch, just seemed like more 5.6-5.7 slab to me.  Follow five bolts to another bolted anchor.

3^rd Pitch- 180’- 5.8/ Follow 8 bolts to yet another bolted anchor at the base of a low angled right facing corner.

4^th Pitch- 200’- 5.7/ Climb the right facing corner eventually trending up and right via intermittent cracks and 3 bolts to a bolted anchor below an obvious right leaning finger crack above with a roof out right.  Belay at treed ledge.

5^th Pitch- 140’- 5.9/ By far the most interesting pitch of the climb and one of two screw ups by the FAers.  The obvious finger crack above, if cleaned out, would make an exceptional pitch.  Instead, they bolted a roof exit out right, then placed another bolt up and left to connect you to that same finger crack.  Follow it up (past a piton and gear) to near its terminus and climb steeper ground up and left through a bolt to a large ledge below the headwall.  Bolted anchor out left. 

6^th Pitch- 190’- 5.10a/ The 2^nd major screw up is that this finish could be a cool pitch, straight up cracks to the summit shoulder. To start the pitch, they bolted the slab up and left (instead of following the obvious left facing corner up and right which can be led on gear below grade).  Either way, you arrive at the crux of the route, a short, steep, slightly overhung corner that you jam and stem up.  Then just 4^th class way out right and back left to the top.  The better option would have been to add a bolt to connect the before mentioned short corner with the crack system above for a steep and fun direct finish at the grade. 

Climbing Sequence

Descent

The FAer’s provided a convoluted descent description.  In reality, scramble down low angled slab to the northeast.  Once you reach the large white slabs below, zig zag your way down 5^th class slab via numerous options. The further east you stay, the easier descent. Once you reach tree line, head northwest to return to the trail.

Essential Gear

The FA gear call on MP.com (2020) is huge.  Most competent leaders would be happy with a single to #2.  The route gets some decent sun in July, mid-day, not a true north face but can be shaded and chilly on the upper pitches. Ten shoulder length slings would be appropriate.