God på Bunnen (Good at the Bottom)

Overview

God på Bunnen = Good on the Bottom

This is an appropriate name for this route, as the first pitch is good, and the other two pitches are low fifth class junk that detract from the overall climb, but can now be skipped thanks to recent bolts added to the top of the first pitch.

Route Description

Once at the base of the cliff, traverse right past a double overhanging arch. The clean slab has two cracks. Very obvious start.

Remember in your old "how to rock climb" book that illustration of a climber using two ropes, with two parallel cracks, how smooth and organized it all looked? Well, this is that rock climb. Neither crack is perfect from top to bottom, and they are just far enough apart that one would get serious rope drag without a double rope system.

Pitch 1: Follow the two cracks, mostly in the right crack for a full pitch. This is a surprisingly consistent pitch, not a lot of good stances, but the cracks are not as mossy, and take pro better than would first appear. Toward the end of the pitch is a small overlap to the left with a piton in a crack to the right, it's possible to belay here, but it's better to stretch the rope out to the widest ledge at the base of a dihedral where there are two bolts. Leave some gear at the bolts (no chains or rings 2010) and rap off, or continue up.

Pitch 2: Curious enough, the route gets steeper, yet easier. Follow the dihedral on the right side of the ledge, then switch to an easier dihedral\groove to the left. After this things get blocky and 4th class. Keep going to the base of a steeper crack\dihedral. Belay takes small\medium cams.

Pitch 3: This is hardly a pitch at all. Scamper up the blocky, loose, short crack\dihedral. It's so loose that it's best to keep the old mountaineer's 3 points rule, and use both sides of the dihedral. Once out of this, it's scrambling over to a large block, heave yourself over the block and you're done. This is easily simulclimbed as nothing is sustained. In fact, it's fine to unrope after finishing the initial dihedral.

Essential Gear

Double rope
Helmet
Trad rack: 1 set of nuts, extra in small\medium, 1 set of cams, extra in small hand size, #3 Camalot for the belay.
Slings for the upper pitches.

External Links

See links on main page for topo and photo overlay of the route.

Images

View God på Bunnen (Good at the Bottom) Image Gallery - 2 Images