Page Type:
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Route |
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Lat/Lon:
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45.93180°N / 6.98940°E |
Route Type:
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Extreme Rock & Ice Climb |
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Time Required:
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One to two days |
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Difficulty:
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ED |
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Approach
Refuge d'Argentiere, see Main Page. Then it takes about 1h across the glacier to the start of the climb.
Route Description
Books: Eberlein #1142; Griffin 2#76 First Ascent: 24.7.1978 J.Ginat, G.Modica, J-P. Siman & J-M.Troussier Route Description: extreme ice climb with mixed pitches, 90° (Scottish 5), constantly 60°-80°, 1050m, 12-20h Report: Comments:
- This was one of the nicest north faces I have seen and now finally climbed.
- The route is rather easy to find, always stay in/near the corner. (see also photo below)
- The Jackson is only differing from the Ginat in the 5 steep pitches after the shield (Jackson going direct and more to the right). The German DAV Guide has a mistake here and mixes up the names.
- The bergschrund can be crossed left or right without bigger difficulties
- We started at the hut at 2:30 and were at the top at 15:30
- Abseiling the south couloir from the breche is obvious, there are many rappel stations
- The descent to the Couvercle hut can be a bit tricky finding through the crevasses
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Essential Gear
There is no gear in place, not even at the belays. In a good year, like in Mar/Apr 2003 Ice-Screws are the ticket for almost the whole climb. The lower part including the 'shield' can be even done without rope or with simulclimbing. In the upper part the ice is often thin, so bring some stubbies (short screws) if you have them.