Flying Buttress Direct, 5.10c, 5 Pitches

Overview/Approach

Flying Buttress Direct is one of the easier attainable climbs in the Longs Peak area.  It is located on the arete of a buttress that extends northeast of Mount Meeker.  It is easily seen and reached straight away from the ranger cabin and backcountry toilet located just off trail below Chasm Lake (Chasm Meadows).  Instead of ascending to the lake as you normally would for the Longs Peak routes, simply continue straight for Mount Meeker to the south.  The buttress indeed has wings and reminds me of a Flying Buttress I have climbed in Sedona that from the air, looks like it has wings.

There are a variety of routes running up this buttress as listed in the local guide (Fixed Pin), left, right, direct, etc.  But by far the best pitch on this formation is the first pitch of the direct option   This route runs as close to the arete on the prominent buttress as it can.  In 2022, a major rock fall wiped out pitch three of this route, forcing you to climb an exposed ramp on the right side for 240’ before setting a belay just below a ledge that starts the fifth pitch.  Therefore this classic route lost its original 3rd and 4th pitches.  This new variation makes the climbing headier to be sure:  240’ of traversing up and right with thoughtful gear and a solid 5.10 crux mid-way when exiting a lower ramp to an upper ramp.  Leaders and/or 2nds would have to be a bit more seasoned than what the route required prior to the rock fall.  The descent is pleasant by normal alpine standards, descending the ridge line of the buttress to the west where you can use a variety of options to summit Mt. Meeker or return back to Chasm Meadows down a broad relatively safe gully.  There is a discrepancy on pitch two.  The local guide discusses going right, which I did, 5.10- face climbing following a thin seam which is vertical and aesthetic (good photo provided).  MP.com posters seem to follow easier ground up and left of the arete.  Either way, the options merge on the east side of the arete.  The guide makes a mistake indicating traversing west after the crux start of pitch two when in fact you trend back east regardless, even if climbing the west side variation as we did.  As before mentioned, the first pitch is amazing, starting out hands to solid holds through a steep dark section and finishing on a tips seam (crux), pulling left over the arete to finish.

Hike up the Longs Peak trail head.  You do not need to bivy unless you want to climb multiple routes.  Otherwise, it is a fast hike for an alpine III climb as published.  Leave the main trail in Chasm Meadows and head straight for the buttress in clear view.  In September 2022, the only accessible water after the ranger cabin is in the descent drainage way out right.  It is best to head up the hill with water in hand in late summer.  Once you get to the very base of the northeast buttress, scramble up several hundred feet to a ledge directly below the clean flat wall that guards the start of the sharp arete.  We encountered zero snow or ice in September 2022. 

Route Description

1^st Pitch- 165’-5.10c/ An excellent pitch.  After scrambling up to the clean vertical face on the lower arete of the buttress, locate the hand crack right of center.  Climb it through dark, steep but juggy, rock as it trends left and up to a tips seam.  Place rps, wires and micro cams as you tackle the crux of the route, a steep seem.  The first move comes at the grade off of a small ledge that could result in pain if falling in the first move or two.  Pin type scars offer good wire placements.  Near the top, the seam ends.  Traverse left around an arete (exposed) and finish up easier ground to a ledge with gear belay.

2^nd Pitch- 150’-5.10-/ MP.com and the local guide (Fixed Pin) describe two different lines.  The guidebooks variation is far more technical offering more interesting moves at the grade but does make a mistake describing the 2^nd half of the pitch as on the west side, rather it is on the east side.  Move right and up the dark face with a seam in it for protection.  Make face moves trending right and pull through a small roof and trend back to the main arete.  Continue up the much easier left side to an exposed traverse left through pin(s) to a notch belay with a slung rap and an old bolt and hanger (2022).

3^rd-4^th Pitches- 240’-5.10/ The original 3^rd pitch fell off the route in 2022. Climbing what option is left (exposed steep ramps up the right side) also eliminates being able to climb the original 4^th pitch.   Start off on easy slab above the bolt and traverse right up an obvious steep ramp.  There is plenty of gear, but inexperienced 2nds could get wigged out.  The obvious ramp system to follow essentially has you vacate a lower ramp for an upper one twice on the 200'+ traverse of the right wall.  Loose and hollow rock in places.  You pass a slung rap (2022) at about the 2^nd ramp transition, about half way through which requires a stout move at the grade to mantel to the above cleaner ramp.  The best gear belay is on a sloping ledge at 240’.  Any simul climbing required to reach that spot will be at a mellow grade on both ends.  One can easily empty a rack on this pitch.

5^th Pitch- 130’-5.8/ Climb a short crack to the ledge above.  Climb the obvious wide right facing corner through a pin to a roof and traverse right to pull out of it. Extend your placements well below the roof to avoid rope drag and/or snag.  Finish easier ground to the summit of the buttress. 

Climbing Sequence

Descent

Follow the ridge line west and circumvent a major obstacle to the right locating an exposed narrow ledge in which to land the top of the gully returning back to the approach.  The gully goes well.  Near the bottom, it is easy to attain water in a drainage to the west (2022).

Essential Gear

70m rope (to avoid an uncomfortable belay on the new pitch 3-4 combo).  Single from micro to #3.  Double to #.5.  Extra micro pieces and/or wires/rps to protect the crux seam.  At least a dozen 60m slings.  Mostly shaded route except for early morning.