Approach
From Gavarnie village take the route to the cirque. First cross the river to the left side and continue walking to the Hotelerie (1h). From here cross the river to the right and reach the base of the icefalls (+30'). Total 1h30'
Route Description
Fluide Glacial is a 300 mts icefall situated in the middle of the "Mur de cirque". There are three floors on this Cirque. First floor's icefalls are about 200-300mts long.
When we reach the base of "Fluido" we are going to start climbing by the right side. First pitch finishes under the column (90º) on the right part. (R. One spit and a "v" ). The second pitch can be superated by the column if is in good conditions (90º, 5) or going to the left under the column 75º to reach second R (parabolts). Third pitch, the easiest, to reach a snow camp. 4º and 5º pitches are continuos 75º- 80º and then we arrive to the snow platform ("la vira"). We are only two pitches long to reach the top!... 6º pitch 50 mts of good ice (75º-80º) and R on the right with parabolts. The last pitch is shorter, about 30 mts (75º) and parabolts on the right too. Descend: Rappeling the route 6 rappels.
Essential Gear
Crampons and 2 piolets. Two ropes 60 mts. 8 Ice axes. Helmet.
Miscellaneous Info
If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.
gariuei - Feb 15, 2005 5:49 am - Hasn't voted
Route CommentGavarnie Village is 1350 mts. and the icefalls are about 1700-1800 mts to 2000mts.
rhyang - Feb 21, 2005 11:09 am - Hasn't voted
Route CommentJust a note that perhaps you mean " 8 ice screws" ? Curious to know what lengths are recommended (17cm, etc). Looks like a great route, in any case.
gariuei - Feb 22, 2005 7:05 am - Hasn't voted
Route CommentOK! ...."ice screws"... sorry! my english isn't very good!
the lenght of 17 cm is ok If the icefalls are in good conditions.
gariuei - Feb 22, 2005 7:24 am - Hasn't voted
Route CommentOK! ...."ice screws"... sorry! my english isn't very good!
the lenght of 17 cm is ok If the icefalls are in good conditions.