Eurydice, 5.10b, 11 Pitches

Overview/Approach

Eurydice is a relatively new route (2017) that offers a unique finish to the Oak Creek classic Black Orpheus.  After climbing the first nine pitches of Black Orpheus, you continue climbing most of the 10^th pitch and then gain an exposed and airy ledge climbers left via a physical but secure mantle.  Then one must crawl along the exposed ledge to reach a gear belay at the arete for one of the most scenic belays in all of Red Rock.  One final 5^th class pitch takes you up to where you will hook into the standard descent for Black Orpheus. 

The FAer describes a hand traverse when in reality the “cat walk” is more attainable by mantling as soon as you can feel the obvious jug below a bolt  on the upper wall. You can clip the bolt before making the move which makes the mantle quite secure.  This move is not technically 5.10b, but the exposure no doubt convinced the FAer’s and others that it is.  However, someone on MP.com thought it was much more difficult than 5.10b, discussing some “shelf” possibly missing. As of 2024, technically it did not feel any more difficult than the grade for sure.  Regardless it is not a lead or follow for the faint of heart or less experienced.  There is a large rocking block midway through the cat walk that offers a great handle that, for obvious reasons, is best to avoid.  The crux move mentally (and possibly emotionally depending on how you were raised) is right below this block, reaching your left foot out over the edge for a foot edge and reaching around the block for a hold on the other side. The last pitch is a quick climb to the top through two bolts. 

Regarding the approach, I have climbed Black Orpheus a few times and pretty much always do it the same way.  I combined the first two pitches for an exact 70m rope length despite Handren’s guide calling it 250’.  The next five pitches are easily combined into two pitches, the 5.7 3^rd pitch onward for a full 70m rope length and then a 260’ simul-pitch to the belay ledge below and east of the start of the 8^th pitch.  The 8^th pitch is approximately 180’. The 9^th pitch is 110’. These are the two crux pitches of Black Orpheus. From there you have two remaining pitches that represent Eurydice.  The majority of Eurydice’s 1^st pitch is the same as Black Orpheus’s 10^th pitch (before mantling the cat walk ledge).  The Faer’s route description it is not well written on MP.com as of 2024 and therefore can be a bit confusing. 

Route Descripton

Climb Black Orpheus including the 10th Pitch

10th Pitch- 120’-5.10b/ Continue up the 10^th pitch of Black Orphus which includes climbing the short concave corner up to the large right facing red corner.  Continue in the corner and right before you finish the pitch as normal by moving out and right to the fixed anchor, stay in the corner for a few more meters and stem to reach positive holds on the ramp above.  Clip a bolt above the holds and then make an awkward but obviously well protected mantle up to the narrow ledge.  You can place additional small gear as you crawl on the ramp out left. The ledge narrows cliffing you out a bit.  Lower your left foot on a positive edge in the amazing exposure below while reaching up blindly with a hand trying to avoid rocking a large sitting boulder above.  It does rock.  The key is getting your hand on the rail between the boulder and where it sits.  Make an exposed traverse left to a side pull and you are home free to the amazing belay perch on the arete.  Small gear belay. 

11th Pitch- 120’-5.5/ Scramble up the varnished, but virgin, face staying close to the arete through two bolts.  Pull over a bulge and belay on top of the wall with medium gear in floor cracks.

Descent

Hike north up hill to locate cairns fairly immediate that lead west down into a chimney to the first fixed rap.  If you have a single 70m, you can skip the additional fixed rap 40’ below and make the next fixed rap.  In total make two full single 70m rope raps to a ledge that can be easily scrambled down into Painted Bowl. 

Essential Gear

If combining pitches for most of Black Orphus, a double from micro to #2 with plenty of extension.  The micro helps protect the ground directly before the 5.10b move on Eurydice.  You will see one particular route log signing on MP.com that references needing a #3 and #4 on the crux pitch, but that poster no doubt meant to say #.3 and #.4. There is no need for large gear on this route. Single 70m for competent parties.  Route receives sun all day.