Eroica

Approach

Start from the Grizzly Gulch trailhead. You can either hike the road from where it branches off from the main road going up to Grays, or you can drive up the rough road if you have a suitable four wheel drive vehicle. Driving will save you a mile of hiking and a couple hundred feet of climbing. The trailhead is a large meadow right after the road crosses to the south side of the stream. This is where you leave the road and start climbing out of the valley.

Climb due south through the steep woods below the basin between Kelso and Torreys. There are faint climber's trails in these woods but they're hard to find, and bushwhacking is probably faster than looking for them. After .8 miles and 800 ft. of climbing the terrain opens up as you enter into the beautiful basin. Climb south towards Kelso Ridge and the deeply inset gully will appear very obviously on the right. This is where you begin you're climb.

Route Description

Strap on your snow climbing gear and start climbing up the gully. The gully becomes increasingly steeper as you climb up and slowly starts to widen. At 12,800 ft. the couloir widens considerably into a large bowlwith multiple thrilling exits. Either climb south to Kelso Ridge, straight ahead to the intersection of Kelso Ridge with Torreys north ridge, or climb to the right onto the north ridge. Either was you will end up the upper part of Kelso Ridge. From here continue on to the summit as indicated in the Kelso Ridge route.

Ascending this route and descending another north face route such as emperor makes a nice tour of Torreys rugged north face.

Essential Gear

Crampons, Ice ax, and waterproof boots. A helmet might be useful.

Miscellaneous Info

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Images

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