Easter on the snow

We both have summited Engineer in the past, Scott even via a south face winter climb - very steep route, and definitively very unusual way to summit this semi-technical peak. 

The peak is challenging enough for many in the summer, and winter poses its own challenges. Most people use a rope for the winter climb since there is considerable exposure, we decided to go light. Deep snow approach (we used our skis), solitude and always the caution with some fresh snow and stability of the slabs above us. 

The fact that he told me about a spring accident on the ridge (same route as ours) did not add much to my bravery. Three climbers were attempting NE ridge climb, and under 2  of the climbers the ridge cornice collapsed killing one and sending the other one for many months of hospitalization and rehabilitation. Great! I prayed secretly for our safety.

The climb itself felt really comfortable.  

"It's not the mountain we conquer, but ourselves." Edmund Hillary

I kept thinking about the first known ascender H.G. Prout who was a topographic assistant with a U.S. Army Corps. He climbed this ridge in July of 1873 and described the climb as “the feelings of a solitary man toiling on hands and knees up this edge are not cheerful”. But we were cheerful. 

The summit was spectacular. Nice snowy ridge with incredible views in all directions. Peaks coming in and out views as clouds were moving by. What a way to celebrate Easter, how different from Easters of my childhood, and I even brought easter eggs with us. 

Sometimes images say more than words: