Page Type:
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Route |
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Lat/Lon:
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47.46300°N / 121.4006°W |
Route Type:
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Scramble w/ Short Technical Section |
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Time Required:
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Half a day |
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Difficulty:
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Class 4 |
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Approach
For the approach to the beginning of this climb (Red Mountain Saddle, c. 5,320+ ft), see the East Ridge approaches on the Main Page. Give yourself 2 hours for the approach. It could be shorter or longer depending on conditions. Snow will slow you down.
Negotiating the False Summits
Take the trail from the saddle up the southeast side of the first false summit. The trail climbs up to the top of the summit then becomes somewhat indistinct near its northwest (west) end. Descend a short rocky gully (Class 3) for about 30 feet to pick the trail up again. It leads right (north) to the big notch between the first and second false summits. Some slabs on the northeast side of the notch will require a short ascent up the other side (50 ft). The trail then goes right and contours the heathery northeast side of the second false summit. Could be steep snow here in early or late season. The trail then climbs up to the second (middle) false summit at its northwestern end. Climb up and over the second false summit then descend 100 feet (Class 3) in a moderate gully/depression on the west end to get to the final notch (5,840+ ft) before the main summit.
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Climb of Main Summit
The ridge steepens considerably here. Take a ledge below the south side of the crest until it ends at a wall. Climb up to the crest here or mount it earlier at the beginning of the ledge. Continue along the spine, up a 20-foot step, then on to the summit. The spine is Class 3 but exposed. The step is Class 4 (maybe low 5th). The remainder is Class 2/3.
There are a series of ugly oversized bolts (not simply bolts but paperback book-sized flanges with large holes in them) on the spine and at the step that can be used for protection points. The bolts were placed there in memory of a climbing leader who died there while placing pro for student climbers.
Time: 2 hours to Red Mountain Saddle + 1 or 2 more hours to summit
Gain: 3,000 ft
Descent
One rappel down the step then the crease between step and spine will make it to the ledge. A 30m rope should be sufficient to get past the difficulties. After that, reverse the route back to the Red Mountain Saddle thence to the car.
Essential Gear
30m rope
3 runners with carabiners
Anchor runners/pieces
Helmet (optional due to shortness of technical portion of climb)
Rappel device
Rock shoes are not necessary