East Ridge

Approach

No other ascent to the Pilatus is as scenic as the east ridge. It has, however, two disadvantages: it is not easy to find and dangerous when wet or icy. Under normal circumstances it is an easy walk where you will hardly see any people before you reach the top.

Usually the start of the ridge begins at 1382 m at the Tellenlücke (saddle of Tell). In order to get there chose one of the following ways:

a) Start from Hergiswil (train, boat) on the Lake of Lucerne and drive or walk to Renggeli (839 m). Walk along the meadows to the top of the ski lift. A small path leads into the forest (south) and in steep zigzags up to the saddle. Max. 1 hour from Renggeli.

b) Take the cable car that starts at Brunni above Hergiswil to Alp Gschwänd (1216 m). Take the small path on the NE flank of the Pilatus to Tellenlücke. Some ladders and ropes are of some help. 45 minutes.

c) Climb the ridge right from the lake at Stansstad (Acheregg 440 m). Nice path with many ups and downs. 2 hours.

Route Description

From Tellenlücke (1382 m) follow a tiny path that zigzags on the ridge and its south flank. Walls are circumvented on the left. After leaving the forest, stay mainly on the ridge. From now on, walls are circumvented on the left (north). At pt. 1972 m the top of Pilatus can be seen. It consists of a lime block called Esel. Two ways lead to the top after descending 30 m:

a) Climb the top directly oscillating between the east ridge and the face left to it. A small path can be detected sometimes. It is very steep, often on grass, no way to secure. Stay away when wet. Not difficult (III) but very exposed and delicate.

b) No problems at all are encountered when you descend another 50 - 100 meters and follow the path that leads south of the Esel and around it to the tunnels of the cogwheel railway into the normal route coming up from Alpnachstad.

2 hours climbing time from Tellenlücke.

Essential Gear

No rope. If the rock and grass is wet, an axe would be helpful. If it is icy, keep away or use crampons.