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10403 Hits
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74.37% Score
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6 Votes
Page Type:
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Route |
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Lat/Lon:
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47.50780°N / 121.7389°W |
Route Type:
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Mixed |
Season:
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Winter |
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Time Required:
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Less than two hours |
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Rock Difficulty:
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5.4 (YDS) |
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Difficulty:
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M3-4 |
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Number of Pitches:
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2 |
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Grade:
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II |
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Overview
This is a fun little mixed route going up the side of the haystack (I think it is the southeast face- left/south of the standard scramble).
It may have been climbed before, and maybe even in winter. But not too much cause there was a ton of loose rock. The rock was covered with snow so finding placements was a little desperate in a couple places.
Getting There
Head up to the Haystack and walk part of the way around. Once you get to the bench, look up at the Haystack and you are basically looking at the route. Whenever possible, travel on the rock face (while still sticking more or less on route).Route Description
Start by climbing rather thin and slabby faces up to a ledge that traverses right. Climb partway up the gully, then mount the face and move up to an interesting chimney with good stemming and good cracks for camming/pro if you aren't soloing. Ascend the near vertical face on the left then climb the final exposed face to the summit.
Essential Gear
Two ice tools. Pitons are going to be your best bet here, but the rock is pretty brittle. You might find some nut placements as well. This route is reasonable to solo if you have the right skill set.