Dragontail/Annapurna snow col

Overview

This is probably the easiest route up Dragontail, albeit an indirect one. It is a nice alternative to the East Ridge in the event that the Snow Creek Glacier is melted down to névé or otherwise unappealing. This route involves minimal snow-travel and only a short class 2/3 section in addition to the standard class 2/3 route up the summit blocks.

I stumbled upon this route accidentally in August 2005. The absolute dearth of snow during the winter of 2004/05 had the area pretty baren and by August the glacier was exposing rocks that likely hadn't been exposed in years. We had heard large rockslides near the glacier for the past couple of days and were in no hurry to climb it, especially after running into MountaingirlBC and hearing her harrowing account of rockfall while they were attempting the route the previous day.

Route Description

Scramble up the far-west flanks of Little Annapurna to the obvious snow col separating it from Dragontail. Cross over the broad snow-saddle and make for the southern skyline, scrambling up a short class 2/3 section to the ridgetop. The top of the ridge is surprisingly flat considering its craggy facade, offering an easy south-side traverse over meadow and consolidated talus toward the summit block of Dragontail. Join the East Ridge route at the col above the Snow Creek Glacier and scramble up the class 2/3 summit blocks via the path of least resistance.

Essential Gear

If this route has enough snow to necessitate crampons, opt for the standard East Ridge route, as it will likely be more enjoyable. This route is a less-direct option that is best used if when there is not adequate snowpack on the Snow Creek Glacier (late summer after a light snow year).

Images

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