Diama Expedition 2008

Nanga Parbat 2008, Diama Expedition

In 2008 our team, consisting of Clara Kulich and Markus Gschwendt, attempted an unfinished route on Nanga Parbat (8125m) using skis. The plan was to climb Nanga Parbat via the Diama Glacier where Mummery disappeared. From the Basecamp of the Kinshofer Route at 4250m (normal route) we easily reached the first high camp of that route and then climbed the Diama Glacier to 6000m between the north west face of the North Summit and Ganalo Peak. The conditions of the Diama Glacier vary from year to year. In 2008 we had difficulties searching for a route in between impressive seracs and crevasses which multiplied every time we went up or down the glacier. In other years it could be possible to more easily climb up along the southern edge of the glacier.

From 6000m we headed up the NW face to 7600m where we traversed to the west and camped close to a field of rocks. We felt safe there but Markus slid into a crevasse in the morning.

A fast incoming weather change, including storm, new snow, and the lack of time left forced us to head back down. Weather conditions even inhibited our attempt to at least climb the few meters up to the highest point of the North Summit. We finally turned around at 7760m at a small col south of it. From here it would be possible to reach the main summit climbing the route of Buhl or to finish by the Kinshofer route.

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