Page Type:
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Route |
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Lat/Lon:
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36.61440°N / 118.8036°W |
Route Type:
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Technical Rock Climb |
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Time Required:
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Less than two hours |
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Difficulty:
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5.10a |
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Approach
Follow the same approach used for 'Sparkler'. The route begins 75 feet right of 'Sparkler' and just past a left facing corner (the beginning to 'Bandito' (5.10, FFA Mike Daly, Sept 1989.....no relation to the page maintainer.)
Route Description
'Death Of A Gunfighter', 5.10a (FFA: Roger Hayashi and Dave Daly, August 2000)
Begin the route by frictioning up a small right slanting crease. As the crease peters out, small edges and flakes provide ample footholds before reaching the first bolt (16 feet). Continue straight up (5.8), clipping the second bolt along the way. Pass a slanting ledge (pro to 1/2") to its right side and continue to the 3rd bolt. Once past the 3rd bolt, the terrain steepens (5.9) and continues at a sustained rate while passing the 4th bolt. Upon clipping the 4th bolt, veer slightly right and up, passing the right side of an exfoliated roof (pro: Camalot Jr. .75). The crux of the climb (.10a) is passing over a small buldge, right of the roof and over. A small crystal dike above the buldge provides solid crimps, although somewhat reachy. Continue to the 5th and final bolt before edging up to a two bolt belay (two Metolius rap hangers). Rappel the route using two ropes (140').
Essential Gear
Quick draws, pro: .50 & .75 and two 50 meter ropes......and a smooth trigger pull for the crux or you'll be a living example of the routes' namesake!
Miscellaneous Info
If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.