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4982 Hits
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74.01% Score
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4 Votes
Page Type:
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Route |
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Lat/Lon:
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36.80800°N / 118.595°W |
Route Type:
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technical rock |
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Time Required:
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Less than two hours |
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Difficulty:
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II, 5.10a to III 5.11 |
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Approach
From the day use parking lot below North Dome, hike up talus and forested slopes to the base of the Dome. Allow 30 - 45 minutes.Route Description
There are ( to the authors knowledge ) six excellent free climbs on the lower part of North Dome. The following climbs are found on the highly polished apron below the large Roman Arch. From left to right they are -Enchanted Pork Fist - II, 5.10a. 2 pitches of face and crack climbing. Gear - 2 R.P.'s, 6 stoppers ( medium - large ), Friends to 4"
Rainbow Warrior - III, 5.11a. 4 pitches of face and crack climbing take one to the top of the Roman Arch. Small - medium stoppers and Friends.
Jerks On A Joyride - II, 5.10b. 2 pitches of face climbing lead to the last pitch of Pork Fist. 2 R.P's.
Sub Texas Love - II, 5.11a. 1 1/2 pitches of difficult face climbing end in nowhere.
Split Lips & Broken Bits - II, 5.10a. A fun lieback crack followed by friction and face climbing. 6 small - medium stoppers, Friends # 1 - 4.
Kibbles & Bits - II, 5.10a. 2 pitches of crack and face climbing. 2 small stoppers, Friends # 1 - 4. Belay bolts and all but one protection bolt replaced with Fixe 3/8" bolts Oct. 17th, 2009 ( 1st pitch only ).
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Essential Gear
All climbs require two 165' ropes for rappels. To the above mentioned gear, all routes require quick draws or carabiners and slings, of course.See topo for more detailed route description.