Charlet - Ghilini

Overview

A popular springtime ice/mixed route on the righthand side of the Pointes supérieures de Pré de Bar. Just above the bergschrund an obvious ice gully leads straight to the ridge crest. Partway up the route an obvious step of ice leads left and up to a route of similar style and character: Madness Tres Mince.

Getting There

Ski to the back left corner of the Argentiere Basin. Cross the bergschrund (probably easiest on the left side) and head towards the gully.

Route Description

Climb a few pitches of low-angle ice to the junction with Madness Tres Mince (to the left). Continue a short ways on ice to belay below a left-facing chimney/crack. Awkward mixed climbing (Scottish V) through the wide crack leads to iced edges angling up and left towards a narrow strip of ice. Belay at the base of the strip of ice. Alternatively, reach the base of the ice strip via thin ice/mixed climbing ~10m left of the wide crack. Climb the thin ice strip (maybe crux, depends on season/year), with protection on the right rock wall, up into the upper ice gully. Climb several pitches of thin ice or mixed terrain up a gully system to the ridge crest. Rappel the route on fixed anchors or v-threads.

Essential Gear

helmet
2 x 60m ropes
ice gear
small rock rack including medium cams and nuts
cord for v-threads
skis will make the approach and especially the descent much faster and enjoyable

References

Refer to link/guidebooks listed in the Parent heading to this page.

Images

View Charlet - Ghilini Image Gallery - 9 Images