Cave Route

Overview

This crappy and dangerous route reaches the summit of Concord Tower in 3 pitches. The route has serious decking potential at the crux and is generally not recommended. If you try it, be very solid at the grade.

The rock on this route varies from absolute oatmeal garbage, to scree, to sound slabs, and 1 good crack. Use caution.

Approach

Approach to the Liberty Bell / Concord Tower notch. From the notch, head west for about 60 feet looking for a double ledge system angling up and to the right. This is the start.

Route Description

Pitch #1 - 5.8R - Traverse accross the balancy ledge on mid fifth terrain until the ledge peters out. Perform a couple of hard balancy highsteps (crux) off the ledge into the groove above you. Pro is poor to nonexistent here, don't fall, decking potential. Climb up the groove until at the base of the nice crack system angling up and to the right. Jamb and lieback this crack (5.7ish) for 25 feet to your belay at the tree on the ledge. The rock is quite poor on this pitch. 120 feet

Pitch #2 - 5.7 - Climb up and to the left on the low angle ramp on mostly 4th class terrain with a couple 5.7 moves. Look up and notice the tunnel. Climb the groove on crappy rock and belay at the fixed station at the start of the tunnel. 90 feet

Scramble class 2 terrain through the tunnel and move your belay station to the other side. This is needed to avoid horrendous rope drag.

Pitch #3 - 5.6 - This pitch is rated 5.2 on the topo and is 5.2 except for the opening move. Pull over the bulge to establish yourself in the nice low angle fingercrack. Jamb this for twenty feet then scramble 4th class slabs up to the summit. 150 feet

Down - Rap the North Face route, 60 meter required. (1) Rap off the summit block to the east to the station below. (2) Straight down the North Face on a full 30 meter rap to the next station. (3) Rap to the big ledge. (4) To the LB / CT notch.

Essential Gear

1 each cams tiny to 3"
A few small to medium nuts
60 meter rope needed to get down

Miscellaneous Info

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Images

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