Page Type:
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Route |
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Lat/Lon:
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46.52790°N / 11.73630°E |
Route Type:
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Rock Climb |
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Time Required:
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Most of a day |
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Difficulty:
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UIAA iV+ (1 step perhaps V-) |
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Approach
This is a summary indication. From Demetz hut descends towards Rif. Vicenza. After about 10 min. you will see on your right the path that leads to the Via Normale. Take it and follow the Via Normale for about 45/60 min. At a certain point you will be just below the Campanile di Venere. Before turning around its West ridge you will find about 10/15 meters of III degree climb. At the end of this climb there is the start of the Jahn way. As usual read the various books about the group to be sure not to get lost.
Route Description
Going up
Please see the attached picture. I remind once more that this is a sketch (even if it is complete and accurate. Before going there consult the bibliography to have a complete description.
Descent
Once at the top you will find a piton, use it to descend on the side opposite to the one where you climbed. If I remember well you need to do 3 rappels. You will arrive on ledge just above the Sassolungo glacier. Follow the ledge (you will need to climb to descend the ledge, about II degree) until you reach a path that will bring you to the glacier (about 45 min). At this point you will see the Via Normale towards the Sassolungo. Turn left and follow it towards Demetz hut. After about 45 min you will reach the point where you started the Jahn way earlier. From the glacier it will take a little less than two hours to reach the Demetz hut
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Essential Gear
Normal climbing equipment (rope, helmet, harness, friends, nuts, slings)
remember to bring a hammer and some pitons.
All the suggestions/advices that I gave for the Sassolungo apply here (do NOT underestimate this mountain).
As usual for me this way is NOT crowded at all. When I did it, I discovered that we were the third group that did it in the whole year.
Miscellaneous Info
If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.
peocro - Jul 26, 2004 9:27 am - Hasn't voted
Route CommentClimbed on the 17 July 2004, really enjoyed the route. A couple of extra warnings: the black chimney is often wet and can be covered with ice (even in July!). This makes it rather tricky! The qualty of the rock is not too good and several holds are quite shaky. Also the rocks on the ridge can e treacherous.
But at the top great view on the Langkofel/Sassolungo, the Cinque Dita, the Grohmannspitze and the other peaks of the Sassolungo group.