Cadet Peak 8/21/2010

Route Description

After seeing the monte cristo range from Sloan peak last weekend, we decided to visit Cadet Peak - 2nd highest peak in the monte cristo range - this weekend. Overall a wonderful day scramble at a leisurely pace

On our way in, we ran into a party of 12 that had spent the week camping at Glacier Basin and made 4 failed attempts to summit Cadet Peak. the old man in the lead stated that they're 'experienced mountaineers', it made us wonder whether we had signed up for more than we're up for. We found the description of Climbing Washington Mountain by Jeff Smoot to be accurate. I am adding a few pictures here overlaid with the route for visual aid.

Entering Glacier Basin. The House-sized boulder mentioned in the Becky Guide is marked in the picture. From here, head north, cross the stream and ascend scree field.






From the house-sized boulder, look north and up the scree slope. Ascend to the right of the gully. at the top of the gully, go left and across the gully. This picture was taken in late Aug, expect the gully to be filled with snow earlier in the season, which would make for quicker travel - beware of the undercut in the middle.








cross left and head up a narrow rocky class 3 gully. 20 feet from the end of the rocks, look left for a climber's trail into the brush/forest. the rest of forest/brush was well-flagged. no bushwhack involved, it was very civilized.



We reached the summit 5 hours after leaving the car, caught a good glimpse of Glacier peak and the base of Sloan peak before cloud came in covering everything north. The monte cristo range was in view. the route was class 2 - 3, no snow, mostly scree, healther and a little bit of brush.

Time

started at 8:30a. 1hr bike ride (4 miles) into monte cristo, 1.5 hour to glacier basin and locate the house-sized boulder. 2.5 hour to summit (1:45p). 1 hour rest at the summit.

Departed summit at 3p. back to car at 7p.

Gear Notes

Bike for approach. Ice Axe, hiking poles, helmet. Route Description from Climbing Washington Mountains by Jeff Smoot.