Bridal Veil Right, I WI4-5

Overview

Bridal Veil Right is the middle of the three typical ice formations in the Bridal Veil Cirque (between Bridal Veil Left and White Nightmare). The climb is 180 feet and is rated WI4-5. Typically, the climb will deserve a WI4 rating, since it sees significant traffic and will usually be picked out. However, leaders should be prepared for a WI5 climb, as it can be quite serious. The ice quality tends to diminish in this cirque the further left (climber’s left) one moves, so the ice here may be chandeliered or more rotten than on White Nightmare.

From the base of the route, climb up and very slightly right, following the line of least resistance (usually a moderately-deep groove/corner) that allows nice stemming. The most sustained section is the first 80+ feet, but the climb’s steps near the top are still quite steep. After 180 feet, top out and belay from a slung tree.

Descent: Best made using two 60m ropes, though one can create a V-thread halfway down the climb to descend with a single 60m rope. Two 60’s are vastly preferable.

Getting There

To reach the climb, head south from Salt Lake or north from Provo on I-15 to the 800 North exit in Orem (note that exit numbers changed within the last few years—the correct exit number is 272. Drive east toward the big mountains (the Wasatch), continuing into the canyon (left) at a major fork in the road. Drive up canyon ~4.7 miles to the Nunn’s Park pullout, where you can park near a gate. If there is no parking available here, head left under the highway and park on the other side in a larger parking area.

From the initial parking area, head east down a wide trail (packed snow in winter), past a gate and several picnic benches. Continue heading east past the Stairway to Heaven approach gully. At some point on your right you will see Bridal Veil Falls. You can either head directly up the gully to the falls, or continue past the gully and look for a boot track that goes up the slope and cuts back right to the falls. The latter option is easier. Follow the track into the cirque below the falls. Bridal Veil Falls is the obvious flow to the left of White Nightmare.

A Word of Caution

The Bridal Veil climbs and White Nightmare sit below a major avalanche gully that rips at least once per year. It has covered the highway below before and has killed climbers on Bridal Veil. When avalanche conditions are unstable on north-facing slopes, this is not a good climb to do. Climbers on Bridal Veil Right will almost certainly be hit by and killed by any avalanche coming down this gully while climbing or hanging out. Do not spend time in the terrain trap below these climbs if avalanche conditions are unfavorable. Better options in these cases is Stairway to Heaven, Pipe Dream/Kitty Litter Wall, Scruffy Band in Little Cottonwood Canyon, or Maple Canyon further south.

Nearby Mixed Climbs

To the right of Bridal Veil Right lie several bolted and traditional mixed lines. From left to right, from the right edge of Bridal Veil Right to the left edge of White Nightmare, they are:

Bride's Rightacle, M7
Saint Provo Girl, M7
Black Daydream, M7+
In Harm's Way, M7+

Further information is available in the Wasatch Mixed guidebook, authored by Doug Heinrich and Nathan Smith.

Essential Gear

Standard ice climbing kit: two technical tools, a rack of screws, helmets. A 60m rope and V-thread material or two 60m ropes. Avalanche beacons, shovels and other gear would be well-advised, though searching for your partner will almost certainly be futile if an avalanche comes through this area, as they are massive.

Guidebooks and Conditions

Some sparse information on this climb can be found in the Ice Climbing Utah guidebook by Dave Black.

Conditions reports can be found occasionally during the winter in the Utah forum on Summitpost, or on Mountainproject.com's forums or Utahclimbers.com's message board:

Summitpost Utah/Southwest Forum

MountainProject Northern Utah forum

UtahClimbers Ice & Snow forum


Wasatch Avalanche Conditions are available at:

Utah Avalanche Center Conditions Page

Images

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