Page Type:
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Route |
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Lat/Lon:
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44.92350°N / 6.35710°E |
Route Type:
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Snow / Ice climb |
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Time Required:
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One to two days |
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Difficulty:
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AD |
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Approach
Take the track up the valley and across the glacier to the Ecrins Refuge (book ahead if you're staying there) There are some good bivvy sites further along the glacier on the right hand side. This is the same approach as most if not all of the routes on the North face of the Ecrins.
(4 hours from car park)
Move across the glacier towards the L side of the Barre Des Ecrins, across the avalanche debris from the seracs above right to the bergschrund at the base of the couloir.
(Approx 40 - 45 mins from the Ecrins Hut.)
Route Description
Cross the Bergschrund to get to the bottom of the route itself. Beware - it can be a bit of a leap. Head straight up the couloir on the right hand side for some rock protection, or wherever the snow is good. We simul-climbed pretty much straight up the middle.
The route is a steady 50 degrees perhaps 60 at the top near the saddle where it can get icy. Head rightwards across the saddle towards the main body of the Ecrins where your choices are to go up the E Ridge (PD+ depending on conditions), traverse the mountain to the Dome de Neige and summit via the standard W ridge, or descend the North face by the normal route.
Length - Approx 1000feet
Time - 2 - 3 hours climbing together
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Essential Gear
Pair of axes, crampons, couple of ice screws & camera for the great sunrise standing on the saddle!
Miscellaneous Info
If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.