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3413 Hits
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Page Type:
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Route |
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Lat/Lon:
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44.36780°N / 121.1455°W |
Route Type:
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Trad Climbing |
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Time Required:
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Half a day |
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Rock Difficulty:
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5.12a (YDS) |
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Number of Pitches:
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6 |
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Overview
A classic line up the Monkey Face's west aspect.Getting There
Go over Asterisk pass. When you reach the base of Monkey Face, find the second line of bolts you'll see from the trail and start here.Route Description
Pitch 1: Difficult climbing on less than vertical rock lead past 4 bolts to a crack. The crack excepts small cams and nuts, but the difficulty eases only slightly. Past a small roof, there is a set of rap bolts. Continue past these on easy terrain to a stack of loose blocks. Climb up these with care to the base of a beautiful finger crack and build a belay. Belay accepts .5" to 1.5" gear.Pitch 2: A wonderful 5.9 finger crack leads to easier terrain. Follow this to the base of the obvious overhanging dihedral. Belay accepts .5" to 1.5."
Pitch 3: This is probably why you got on the route in the first place. An amazing overhanging dihedral leads out over the belay. It stays pretty consistant at .5" to .75" until you climb past to fixed pitons and pull over to the first good stance. Climb steep but easy rock past another fixed piton to a roof. Chossy underclings lead to a bolt. A few more powerful moves lead to a pair of rap bolts.
Pitch 4: A short dihedral leads to a difficult move out of a roof. Two bolts lead to a two bolt anchor.
Pitch 5: 4 bolts of face climbing give way to an undercling crack which ends at a two bolt anchor in the west cave. Optional 1.5" piece.
Pitch 6: Pack up and move to the north end of the cave. A strenuous series of moves out the overhang past three bolts lead past one more bolt to the anchors.