is the NW ridge, gained about a half half hour from the summit. The walk on the ridge isn´t difficult, but the crux is to get on the ridge: the easiest way is a steep slope, 50-55 degrees and about 80-90m long.
You get on the ridge just right of a very big mushroom. It´s possible to get on the ridge a little further to the right, ie closer to the summit, but not much, since big seracs are hanging high on the west wall. Getting on the ridge further left would be easier, but then the mushroom would be a big obstacle.
Thanks. I added your info to the route section of the page and credited you with the update. Brad Johnson metions the NW ridge route, and indicates that in some years it may be the necessary route to reach the summit. When I did it we went straight up the west face, which was a good challenge for me.
Buz Groshong - Sep 25, 2013 10:43 am - Hasn't voted
Re: The normal route in 2011 ...
Looks like the normal route has returned to the face in 2013.
Yep, based on what other people have posted, it seems that the condition of the face has improved over what it was two years ago. It just confirms that glacier route conditions can be fickle, and the best way up changes over time...
rgg - Jul 31, 2011 6:36 pm - Voted 10/10
The normal route in 2011 ...is the NW ridge, gained about a half half hour from the summit. The walk on the ridge isn´t difficult, but the crux is to get on the ridge: the easiest way is a steep slope, 50-55 degrees and about 80-90m long.
You get on the ridge just right of a very big mushroom. It´s possible to get on the ridge a little further to the right, ie closer to the summit, but not much, since big seracs are hanging high on the west wall. Getting on the ridge further left would be easier, but then the mushroom would be a big obstacle.
Buz Groshong - Jul 31, 2011 8:12 pm - Hasn't voted
Thanks.Thanks. I added your info to the route section of the page and credited you with the update. Brad Johnson metions the NW ridge route, and indicates that in some years it may be the necessary route to reach the summit. When I did it we went straight up the west face, which was a good challenge for me.
Buz Groshong - Sep 25, 2013 10:43 am - Hasn't voted
Re: The normal route in 2011 ...Looks like the normal route has returned to the face in 2013.
rgg - Sep 29, 2013 8:26 am - Voted 10/10
Re: The normal route in 2011 ...Yep, based on what other people have posted, it seems that the condition of the face has improved over what it was two years ago. It just confirms that glacier route conditions can be fickle, and the best way up changes over time...
Buz Groshong - Sep 29, 2013 8:35 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: The normal route in 2011 ...Thanks. It's always great to have updates from members that can check the conditions first hand.