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Route |
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Lat/Lon:
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37.81670°N / 35.16670°E |
Route Type:
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Moderate Ice&Rock |
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Time Required:
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One to two days |
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Difficulty:
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III or IV- |
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Approach
The trailhead starts from the Arpalik pasture(2100m) where you can get there via Demirkazik Village. You can either start walking from the ski house in the village or rent a truck to pick you up to Arpalik. Honestly, I advice you to take a truck. You'll see the route on the right hand side(south) of the big rock masses.
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Route Description
The first step of the route required a basic snow/ice and rock climbing knowlegde up to 3200m. There is a risk of avalanche so you may sometimes walk on the rock slabs. This section is a scramble up to the highest point of the rock pyramids(which is so called 'toblerone' because of its shape seen from Arpalik). I advise you to biwac between 3000-3100m because the rest would be hard.
That is the second part of the climb and you'll see the real west face after 3200m. It is just like a labyrent. There are many routes but only one of them is to summit. Becareful with these because there are technical mix routes and it is not easy to descent if you already climb it. Actually, you should try these like mouse seeking for chese. If you find the true one, the rest will be very simple to get he summit. It is just a walk up on the ridge. The difficulty depends on the time(winter/summer) and the way you use to find true entry of the labyrent.
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Essential Gear
You'll be able to use all the gear necessary for technical ice and rock climbing: crampon, axe, helmet, nuts....etc. On the other hand, becareful with the rocks. They are not strong enough to use gear like piton.
Miscellaneous Info
If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.
nurettin - Jun 24, 2004 4:58 am - Hasn't voted
Route CommentWest Face is a natural avalanche area in winter and it has too many records!