one of the best routes I climbed in the Sierra. When we did it with Misha, I think we started around 5 or 6am from Dusy, got back to camp around 8pm, so a little quicker than you but we had the big benefit of daylight the whole time.
If Sun Ribbon is considered Grade IV, then this route should get the same rating.
The info in Moynier is useless.
Nice trip report, btw :-)
PaulinBishop - Jan 18, 2010 9:43 pm - Hasn't voted
Additional route info
The route could be compaired to "Sun Ribbon Arete" in length and difficulty. And it starts about 1000' higher. We thought it was going to be about 10 pitches, but it endded up being much longer, we forgot to count. For those interested the pack had a new Marrot Zues jacket stuffed in it. Hint: the pack is slightly off route. There are a few here in Bihop who want the booty, so the route might see some action the summer. The descent gully was a lot scarier then Mike let on, and since we couldn't find any rap stations we had to rap off my gear, so I paid doubly for my stupid mistake. I remember his words as we started down the gully, "I think we might die". It was a very good thing that we had 60m half ropes.
Way to go bro... turning dream and concept into reality. I am with Pavel all the way here; one of the best routes I've done anywhere. After doing one of the 50 NA Classics last summer, Direct Exum on the Grand Teton, I have to say that the West Arete of Winchell is better! Now you have to climb it again to get your buddy's pack back :)
I've climbed the Direct Exum too, and it's hard for me to say which I liked better. The day we climbed the Grand we had the entire mountain to ourselves, but I think that's rare. Still one of the best days I've had in my life. You'd never have problems with crowding on Winchell though.
Nicely written. I've never tried Chinese food before a climb, but I can say with authority that Mexican food, when combined with sudden increases in elevation, produces gastrointestinal distress. Looks like a great climb, thanks for sharing.
I found your backpack. Only thing left was a few slings, some rap rings, and a cliff shot that expired years ago. Let me know if you want any of them back...:)
I wonder who nabbed the jacket and headlamp that were in there. Was the pack unzipped? The stuff is Paul's, so I'll let him decide if he wants it back or not.
Augie Medina - Jan 13, 2010 12:47 pm - Voted 10/10
Great ReportEver recover the pack? On your single strand raps, I take it you had a pull cord with you?
Cheers,
Augie
EricChu - Jan 13, 2010 4:04 pm - Voted 10/10
Great!Excellent report and fantastic photos!
RayMondo - Jan 17, 2010 12:14 pm - Voted 10/10
PhewA border between adventure and epic. Lovely photos.
myles - Jan 18, 2010 11:30 am - Voted 10/10
Great reportThanks for the great report. I love me some Palisades!
Blair - Jan 18, 2010 11:52 am - Voted 10/10
Nice TRThanks for sharing. Good story, will have to remember this route
kovarpa - Jan 18, 2010 5:47 pm - Hasn't voted
this wasone of the best routes I climbed in the Sierra. When we did it with Misha, I think we started around 5 or 6am from Dusy, got back to camp around 8pm, so a little quicker than you but we had the big benefit of daylight the whole time.
If Sun Ribbon is considered Grade IV, then this route should get the same rating.
The info in Moynier is useless.
Nice trip report, btw :-)
Sierra Ledge Rat - Jan 18, 2010 6:49 pm - Voted 10/10
great reportDescent is always the most worrisome part.
PaulinBishop - Jan 18, 2010 9:43 pm - Hasn't voted
Additional route infoThe route could be compaired to "Sun Ribbon Arete" in length and difficulty. And it starts about 1000' higher. We thought it was going to be about 10 pitches, but it endded up being much longer, we forgot to count. For those interested the pack had a new Marrot Zues jacket stuffed in it. Hint: the pack is slightly off route. There are a few here in Bihop who want the booty, so the route might see some action the summer. The descent gully was a lot scarier then Mike let on, and since we couldn't find any rap stations we had to rap off my gear, so I paid doubly for my stupid mistake. I remember his words as we started down the gully, "I think we might die". It was a very good thing that we had 60m half ropes.
Misha - Jan 18, 2010 9:49 pm - Voted 10/10
YAY!!Way to go bro... turning dream and concept into reality. I am with Pavel all the way here; one of the best routes I've done anywhere. After doing one of the 50 NA Classics last summer, Direct Exum on the Grand Teton, I have to say that the West Arete of Winchell is better! Now you have to climb it again to get your buddy's pack back :)
m_dquist - Jan 19, 2010 1:56 am - Hasn't voted
Direct ExumI've climbed the Direct Exum too, and it's hard for me to say which I liked better. The day we climbed the Grand we had the entire mountain to ourselves, but I think that's rare. Still one of the best days I've had in my life. You'd never have problems with crowding on Winchell though.
woodsxc - Jan 19, 2010 9:11 am - Voted 10/10
Great TRNicely written. I've never tried Chinese food before a climb, but I can say with authority that Mexican food, when combined with sudden increases in elevation, produces gastrointestinal distress. Looks like a great climb, thanks for sharing.
Diggler - Jan 19, 2010 1:19 pm - Voted 10/10
NiceLooks like a killer climb. Gotta love the summit too, huh? Palisades are an awesome grouping of peaks. Glad you had such a good time!
ktnbs - Jan 19, 2010 10:51 pm - Hasn't voted
very nice reportand super photos.
Mirgrrr - Jul 30, 2016 12:47 pm - Hasn't voted
Found itI found your backpack. Only thing left was a few slings, some rap rings, and a cliff shot that expired years ago. Let me know if you want any of them back...:)
m_dquist - Jul 30, 2016 12:53 pm - Hasn't voted
Nice findI wonder who nabbed the jacket and headlamp that were in there. Was the pack unzipped? The stuff is Paul's, so I'll let him decide if he wants it back or not.