Welcome to the Machine, 5.10, 5 Pitches

Overview/Approach

Welcome to the Machine is a route that is very similar to the ultra-popular Endgame on End Pinnacle.  It starts to the south of Endgame and actually joins it for a pitch before essentially crossing it as Welcome continues straight up in a steep, slightly overhanging, corner whereas Endgame escapes said corner.  Endgame is more popular because it is easier, but Welcome is ever bit as good of a route.  The 3^rd and 4^th pitches offer a unique trad like experience on End Pinnacle, but like many routes in the Stronghold, even its cracks and corners are bolted.

The first pitch starts in the obvious left leaning tall chimney.  The 2nd pitch meets Endgame’s 2^nd pitch and stops at the same fixed rap hangers.  The third pitch continues up the left facing corner whereas Endgame traverses right immediately.  The 3rd pitch is the crux offering some unique stemming up the corner until it makes an airy traverse out right.  The 4^th pitch offers a fun right facing corner that is mostly bolted despite accepting gear.  The last pitch is the same as for Endgame.  The descent is the same as for all the routes near this southwest end of End Pinnacle, double rope rap down the route Magnus Veritas. 

Approach as you would for Endgame.  Continue up and around the west face (passing a massive boulder) to start in the obvious chimney with a large thin flake stuck in its base.

Route Description

1^st Pitch- 85’-5.9/ Chimney your way up the right side of the massive flake in the base of the chimney.  Clip four bolts and sling a chickenhead or two to the fixed belay. 

2^nd Pitch- 115’-5.8+/ The local guide has this pitch at 140’ which is exaggerated in length and typical for many pitches in the guide as of 2022.  Continue up the arete following the bolts via very positive features the whole way.  I placed no gear and found no need to sling a feature on pitch 2.  Eight bolts protect the pitch well, the last five of which are on End Game’s second pitch.  Belay at rap hangers in the corner.

3^rd Pitch- 70’-5.10/ This is a great, albeit short, pitch of climbing.  Use a #3 and a #.75 to protect in the corner to the first bolt.  Stem and pull your way through on positive features, but steep ground.  The crux is near the top where you need to traverse right and transition on face. Face right and create a chimney stance and then transition to a wide stem and cross over.  Continue up the steep but positive features to the fixed belay at the base of a right facing corner.

4^th Pitch- 120’-5.10-/ Once again, this pitch is shorter than the guide suggests.  Climb the corner with flaring hand jams and solid features out right.  Felt more 5.9 than 5.10.  The corner is relatively well bolted (6 bolts), but you can place a few wires to supplement if you desire.  Near the top where it becomes lower angled, the bolts end and you can place a medium piece or two.  Belay on top of the massive sub-summit ledge via bolts in the floor. 

5^th Pitch- 100’-5.8/ Finish on End Game’s 5^th pitch.  Move right to the fixed rap and set up a belay there.  Traverse straight right and stem up a short chimney to start clipping bolts (7).  This is a fun steep face pitch to the summit.

Climbing Sequence

Descent

Make a single 60m rope rap from the summit back to the base of pitch 5.  Make a double 60m (or 50m) rope rap down climbers right to a modern (2022) fixed rap on Magnus Veritas.  Make another double rope rap down the route to its fixed rap below a roof.  Make one more rap to the ground.

Essential Gear

Double 50m or 60m ropes for an easy and clean rap back to the base of the route.  Single from #.75 to #3 and a few wires.  Half slings and half draws (10 total).  A few 120cm runners to sling features.  Route faces west.  Gets sun in January well past noon.