Dow Williams - Feb 10, 2024 8:31 am Date Climbed: Feb 4, 2024
Death by Water- 150’-5.7+
This route seems contrived in that it steals its best climbing from Burial of the Dead. Climb through the same trough, but exit up and right on low angled slab and move right to a right facing corner. Climb it to just below the roof and exit up and left on juggy and steep chickenheads. On the traverse up and left to the jugs, you get a #.4 in a slot under a bulge before running it out over the jugs to lower angled ground and back left on easy ground to the shared fixed rap with Burial. Single to #3. 70m rope. Route receives sun most all day in the winter. The 2nd pitch is not worth doing as it forces you to descend the gully. It is best to treat these five routes on the west face as long single pitches, rapping and moving to the next versus scrambling to the summit on easy ground.
Dow Williams - Feb 10, 2024 8:28 am Date Climbed: Feb 4, 2024
Burial of the Dead- 140’-5.9
This is one of the better 5.8-9 pitches on the east side. Climb through the shared two bolt start (Death by Water and What the Thunder Said). From there it is a clean trad route. Jam the wide crack on the right, step out on the right arete via fun exposure and then move back left to enter the trough. Plenty of gear options but not linear cracks so you have to pay a bit of attention. You come to an obvious run out face above, rather traverse left under a shallow roof with one decent small piece, then up and left on steep but juggy chickenheads. Finish to the fixed rap (rap hangers 2024). A single 70m rope just makes a rap to the ground off of this anchor. Single to #3. Few wires or offset cams. Route receives sun most all day in the winter.
Route Climbed: The Wasteland Date Climbed: Dec. 28, 2005
We did this the day after Warpaint expecting a quick cruise. We actually found this to be more of an adventure than Warpaint (a mostly bolted 10c). The climbing is not hard, but there are substantial runouts (several places you're pulling 5.8 moves with small pro waaay below your feet) and you don't want to fall on these chickenhead-studded faces (they would f... you up!!!). Also there are 2 essentially full on hanging gear/chickenhead belays. There's not a single piece of fixed HW on this route. Swapped leads with Shirley (who got the even pitches) and we both ended up with 1 spicey pitch each (#3 mine; #4 hers). Green calls this "the best 5.8 in AZ". Have not climbed much in AZ, but it was pretty damn sweet. Exposed and sustained at the grade. More fun/memorable than Warpaint IMHO. TR of trip.
Dow Williams - Feb 10, 2024 8:31 am Date Climbed: Feb 4, 2024
Death by Water- 150’-5.7+This route seems contrived in that it steals its best climbing from Burial of the Dead. Climb through the same trough, but exit up and right on low angled slab and move right to a right facing corner. Climb it to just below the roof and exit up and left on juggy and steep chickenheads. On the traverse up and left to the jugs, you get a #.4 in a slot under a bulge before running it out over the jugs to lower angled ground and back left on easy ground to the shared fixed rap with Burial. Single to #3. 70m rope. Route receives sun most all day in the winter. The 2nd pitch is not worth doing as it forces you to descend the gully. It is best to treat these five routes on the west face as long single pitches, rapping and moving to the next versus scrambling to the summit on easy ground.
Dow Williams - Feb 10, 2024 8:28 am Date Climbed: Feb 4, 2024
Burial of the Dead- 140’-5.9This is one of the better 5.8-9 pitches on the east side. Climb through the shared two bolt start (Death by Water and What the Thunder Said). From there it is a clean trad route. Jam the wide crack on the right, step out on the right arete via fun exposure and then move back left to enter the trough. Plenty of gear options but not linear cracks so you have to pay a bit of attention. You come to an obvious run out face above, rather traverse left under a shallow roof with one decent small piece, then up and left on steep but juggy chickenheads. Finish to the fixed rap (rap hangers 2024). A single 70m rope just makes a rap to the ground off of this anchor. Single to #3. Few wires or offset cams. Route receives sun most all day in the winter.
rpc - Jan 10, 2006 5:13 pm
Route Climbed: The Wasteland Date Climbed: Dec. 28, 2005We did this the day after Warpaint expecting a quick cruise. We actually found this to be more of an adventure than Warpaint (a mostly bolted 10c). The climbing is not hard, but there are substantial runouts (several places you're pulling 5.8 moves with small pro waaay below your feet) and you don't want to fall on these chickenhead-studded faces (they would f... you up!!!). Also there are 2 essentially full on hanging gear/chickenhead belays. There's not a single piece of fixed HW on this route. Swapped leads with Shirley (who got the even pitches) and we both ended up with 1 spicey pitch each (#3 mine; #4 hers). Green calls this "the best 5.8 in AZ". Have not climbed much in AZ, but it was pretty damn sweet. Exposed and sustained at the grade. More fun/memorable than Warpaint IMHO. TR of trip.