"Got tight last night on absinthe and did knife tricks. Great success shooting the knife into the piano. The woodworms are so bad and eat hell out of all furniture that you can always claim the woodworms did it."
--Ernest Hemingway
© 2006-2021 SummitPost.org. All Rights Reserved.
Dow Williams - Jul 9, 2021 12:43 pm Date Climbed: Jul 8, 2021
Warpy MoopleWith Ben from Albuquerque. I led all the pitches but pitch 6. I combined the first two and the 3rd and 4th. I recommend not combining the first two to avoid rope drag at the crux of the route. The crux of the route on the 2nd pitch could easily be rated 5.10a/b many places (i.e. Red Rock). The spiciest lead I suppose was the 5th pitch. You traverse out left and never really stare down a finger splitter as beta out there suggests. As with all Sandia climbing, it can be a challenge to get a good visual of where you need to go. A lot of chopped up face really with a few intermittent cracks. I highly doubt if any two leaders would ever follow the same path on this rig even if they repeated it themselves. I took a single rack for the most part which was sparse when combining pitches.