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6356 Hits
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Page Type:
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Route |
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Route Type:
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Basic rock climb |
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Time Required:
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Half a day |
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Difficulty:
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II |
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Overview
The W-ridge of the K5 is described at the famous "Im leichten Fels" from Walter Pause. It's a very beautiful, easy but exposed climb with fantastic impressions. It's part of the famous Kreuzberg-traverse, an rarely done epic crossing all the Kreuzberge.
Approach
Approach from Bollenwees
Start at the Bollenwees and hike up to the marked path to the Roslenalp (see main page for description).
Approach from Sax
Hike up the long way to the "Saxer Lücke", then follow the path to the Roslenalp.
At the N-face of the K5 a big rock-window is visible near the saddle K5/K6. The first thing is to reach the base of this rock-window. From the Roslenalp hike up direction the culoir between K4 and K5. At the base of the gully a remarkable boulder can be seen. From this boulder a small path leads below the N-face of the K5 to a small, yellow recess. Scambling up the path going up the whole N-face (grassy slope) from E to W brings one to a ledge at the beginning of a chminey/couloir below the rock-window (broken but easy rock). Following this chminey to the rock-window and going through the rock- window himself brings you to the south side of the K5. From there you can reach the saddle between K5 and K6 in a few minutes (about 1-2 hours from Roslenalp).
Route Description
Start at the saddle between K6 and K5. The first two pitches (the crux) are crossing the big rock-window in a spectecular but easy way (very exposed pitch). After that the climbing gets less exposed. Following the main ridge all times brings one up to a notch. From there two possibilities:
- follow the crest himself, exposed but easy
- follow an easy ledge south of the main ridge
Both possibilities join after about 2 pitches in a saddle below a final, steep step. Climb this step using an easy chminey.
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Descent
From the summit follow the E-ridge (direction saddle K5/K4). Climb down some meters to an big abseil. Go down this abseil brings you to the ravine going down direction N from the saddle K4/K5. Scrambling down this ravine brings you back to the Roslenalp. This descent is not shown in the routes overview photo above !
Essential Gear
Rope, helmet, a few rocks/friends, slings