Pitch 2 ends on the left side of the chimney at a two-bolt anchor approximately 90' above the first belay.
Pitch 3 alternate- From the bolted anchor, step left onto the face. The first bolt is within 10' of the anchors. It is extremely run-out to the second bolt. However, 5.8ish moves up the face can be protected with pro. to 1.5" in a crack on the left. After approximately 80' the crack ends. From here, you can carefully climb right to the top of the original chimney (not much gear) or veer left up the face on sloping holds leading to fun positive edges and several bolts. Eventually reach a two-bolt anchor on the face. +/- 160'
Pitch 4- From the belay ledge step 20' right (no pro., but easy 5.5 climbing) into an alcove (original Pitch 3 belay) and continue up the standard route.
Beware of rodents at the base of this route. Arriving back at my pack I found they had eaten several holes through the top pouch to get to a bag of mixed nuts. There is other evidence (shredded pack material of various colors) that this has happened to other climbers, too.
Also, if you find a set of keys... please let me know.
jwport - Apr 6, 2007 1:05 pm - Hasn't voted
Pitches 2, 3 and 4Pitch 2 ends on the left side of the chimney at a two-bolt anchor approximately 90' above the first belay.
Pitch 3 alternate- From the bolted anchor, step left onto the face. The first bolt is within 10' of the anchors. It is extremely run-out to the second bolt. However, 5.8ish moves up the face can be protected with pro. to 1.5" in a crack on the left. After approximately 80' the crack ends. From here, you can carefully climb right to the top of the original chimney (not much gear) or veer left up the face on sloping holds leading to fun positive edges and several bolts. Eventually reach a two-bolt anchor on the face. +/- 160'
Pitch 4- From the belay ledge step 20' right (no pro., but easy 5.5 climbing) into an alcove (original Pitch 3 belay) and continue up the standard route.
jwport - Apr 6, 2007 1:18 pm - Hasn't voted
RodentsBeware of rodents at the base of this route. Arriving back at my pack I found they had eaten several holes through the top pouch to get to a bag of mixed nuts. There is other evidence (shredded pack material of various colors) that this has happened to other climbers, too.
Also, if you find a set of keys... please let me know.