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Fun Doubleheader
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Fun Doubleheader 

Page Type: Trip Report

Location: Oregon, United States, North America

Date Climbed/Hiked: Jul 4, 2008

Activities: Mountaineering

Season: Summer

 

Page By: twoshuzz

Created/Edited: Jul 6, 2008 / Jul 6, 2008

Object ID: 418603

Hits: 326 

Page Score: 86.02% - 2 Votes 

Vote: Log in to vote

 

Happy 4th of July

I needed to get out. The itch was too great.Hastily, I threw some gear together on Thursday July 3rd. Middle Sister was my primary goal with North Sister a bonus.I planned to evaluate time,weather and conditions once down to Collier Col after summiting Middle Sister. The weather report was in favor of a warm summer climb with possible isolated thunder showers ending Friday and hot weather through the weekend.Trusting the report, I packed for warm weather and a light pack.Judging by recent trip reports, I decided it safe to bring only the barest of essentials. A pair of tools for the bowling ally would be about it.


I hoped an early afternoon start down the hwy would get me to the Pole Creek TH early enough to make it to about 6800' and just out of/into the treeline.Traffic had other ideas and I finally made camp at 7:30 PM at Soap Creek crossing.

Soap Creek crossing

High Camp

]

In the ditch

A lazy start to the day as I could not sleep the night before. I left Soap Creek at 10.00 AM and made camp on the snowfields below the E. Ridge of N. Sister by 1:00 PM. Route finding was easy as I came up Sqaw creek. Exchanged hikers for plastics about halfway up the creek when I hit the snow line. The second I hit the treeline the wind was in my face at a consistant 15 - 20 MPH. Clouds were moving by South and Middle Sister and Broken Top at a concerning rate but also helped keep the huge thunderheads to the east. I watched all day and waited for a complete look at the upper and lower Hayden Glacier and the N.ridge. Finally, after the sun moved behind N. Sister, I got a good look and was able to spy the route. Plans were made and the night was short.

Frozen Failure


Finally
Optimism and the howling wind provided my second night of no sleep. Too excited about the climb and hope of a doubleheader. I made an early 3:00 AM start as the snow had softened in the afternoon of the previous day. If I was to pull off the double, I needed to be on the N. Sister "terrible traverse" and the "Bowling Alley" in the early morning.I began working my way up the Hayden on a combination of good Ne've and icy patches. The freezing level had dropped to about 8000' over night and was re-freezing the surface. Crampons bit hard as I made my way up the steepening lower Hayden. The cold wind was a constant 20 mph gusting to 35-40.By 5:00 AM, I broke over Collier col with the clouds and hard cold wind in my face. Having planned on warmer weather I had on only light Marino longs under thin shell pants and hardshell jacket. I was absolutely numb. The clouds were moving by me thick and fast with visibility down to 20 feet. From the day before, I knew a substantial cornice was still present low on the N. ridge. I took stock and decided to turn around and leave things to a better day. Frozen failure yes, but a real shot at the Sisters Trifecta in the week to come helped to ease the pain. Back in camp by 6:30, I packed everything up,downed some GU and started my way out by 9:00. By 11:00 I was back at the truck in the warm sun planning to return later in the follwing week. This time, I'll pack more appropriately. The Sisters Trifecta awaits.

On the way out


 

Images



Comments

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Viewing: 1-2 of 2

TJ311Sounds Like...

Voted 10/10

... the weather was not cooperating. Hopefully you catch a break on your next attempt! Looks like a great place!
Posted Jul 6, 2008 7:01 pm

twoshuzzMy own fault

Hasn't voted

I figure I got what I deserved by trusting the weather man. Heading back next week better prepared.I'll post another report.
Posted Jul 6, 2008 10:09 pm

Viewing: 1-2 of 2


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