| Colorado Snow Intro: Four Weeks, Three Trips, Two Successes and One Close Call Trip Report |
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| Colorado Snow Intro: Four Weeks, Three Trips, Two Successes and One Close Call   | 
| Page Type: Trip Report Location: Colorado, United States, North America Lat/Lon: 40.30000°N / 105.7°W Date Climbed/Hiked: Apr 7, 2007 Activities: Mountaineering Season: Spring | Page By: jfox Created/Edited: May 10, 2007 / May 17, 2007 Object ID: 292129 Hits: 950 Loading... Page Score: 88.96% - 15 Votes Loading... Vote: Log in to vote |
IncurableIt’s hopeless. I’ve been bitten by the mountaineering bug and its infection has taken hold. Its venom is coursing through my veins, it is not letting up and the prognosis does not look good. As they might say…I’m terminal.
It started out as commonly as one would think. I have always been drawn to the mountains and have done my fair share of hiking and climbing. However, in the past year, I have really stepped up my game and have ventured into sport and trad climbing, climbing in the winter and now climbing steep snow couloirs. And I love it! My first ever snow climb was last year on the Middle Teton. That went pretty well and really set the stage for what I wanted to do in the future.
I began perusing SummitPost for routes on nearby mountains that looked intriguing, were relatively easy for my skill level and offered spectacular scenery. I wanted the whole enchilada! That’s about the time I got to know Andy via 14ers.com. I had seen some of his trip reports of his snow climbs and was awed by some of the pictures of Dragon’s Tail Couloir. So I sent him an email in regards to climbing snow etc. and he was quick with a response that helped me out in deciding which ones to try first. I later met him on Drift Peak and since then we’ve climbed together several times now. Finally, near the end of March, early April of this year, I got the much anticipated invite to climb some steep snow. Low and behold it was almost the same climb I had been in awe over. We were going to climb the Dragon’s Tooth Couloir on Saturday April 7th, 2007!
Once Bitten...4/7/2007 (The Dragon's Tooth)
I met Andy and Fabio at the Bear Lake trail head in Rocky Mountain National Park at 6:00a.m. that morning. The weather was not good. It was overcast, snowing a bit and cold. There were several others who were supposed to be there but they backed out the day before due to the forecast. Thus, in the brisk morning air, only the three of us would be suiting up and heading off towards the continental divide and the nasty weather.
The hike into the forest was uneventful until we realized that we were lost. Having been here numerous times in the past, Fabio suspected we were off trail (you can’t see it due to the snow cover) since we were heading down a significant hill. It turned out that we were heading down to Bear Lake. With the low cloud cover, there were no landmarks visible and no points of reference. We broke out the map and compass I was carrying and oriented ourselves by Nymph Lake. Knowing where we were, we continued on towards the Dragon of Flattop Mountain.
Arriving at the base of the climb, we still couldn’t see anything. The clouds were moving fast to the east and every once in a while we’d catch a glimpse of Hallet Peak and one of it’s vast buttresses to our left. Finally though, as if the mountain gods were rewarding us for our dedication, the clouds began to part as we began the climb. We could finally see the towering pinnacles of the Dragon’s Tooth to our right. We were post-holing a bit on the apron so we put on snowshoes. This helped a lot, however, once the angle of the climb steepened, it got a bit scary to be in snowshoes on this slope. After a bit of climbing, we found a ledge at the base of a cliff band that was ideal for donning crampons. Here we also put on our harnesses and got a bite to eat and drink before committing to the climb…the real fun was about to begin.
At this point the sun was up and shining brightly towards the western sky. There was a nice inversion below us and to the east, so the higher we climbed, the better the visibility and weather became. The views of Hallet Peak’s three buttresses were very impressive. Towering walls of granite surrounded us more and more as we ascended into the mouth of the Dragon. The climbing was great. The snow conditions were perfect as well the higher up we climbed. The rhythm of front pointing crampons and the plunging of ice axes was music to my ears. The snow steepened to 50º near the middle of the climb, and would remain that steep for the rest of the ascent. About 2/3rds of the way up, there is a crux section of vertical snow/ice/rock (depending on what time of year you climb it) that you must climb up and over. It is probably 8 or 10 feet in height. To climbers right appears to be the easiest way through, but there exists another “obstacle” here one must consider. The remains of a dead elk block this route! So we chose to go climbers left and ascend a vertical snow wall. Fabio went first, then me, then Andy. The climb was a little sketch since foot placement was a bit of a problem due to climbing a snow wall. I kept knocking big chunks of snow down on Andy who was video taping the climb. It’s probably good that we didn’t have a big group since the more people who climbed this crux; the more it would have deteriorated to the point of collapse.
Once over this, there was still a lot of climbing left to do. I was getting tired, but was astounded at the scenery around me. This is a spectacular climb in a breathtaking alpine environment. The Dragon’s Tooth is a long ascent, nearly 1,500’ vertical feet of elevation gain in the couloir. Near 10a.m. we finally reached the top. Up here it was a bluebird day but really windy and colder than in the couloir. We found shelter by some rocks in order to change out of crampons, stow axes, break out the trekking poles for the easy down climb and eat some food. Views of Long’s Peak, Hallet Peak, Notchtop and the Mummy Range surrounded us.
We left the summit of Flattop and headed down the standard trail past the Banana Bowl and towards the trail head. Andy had told me the best part of the day was yet to come: Fish burrito’s at Ed’s Cantina in Estes Park and cold margaritas! I couldn’t wait! I didn’t get the fish burrito, but my chimi was good none the less! By the end of the meal, we were already planning our next trip.
Twice Shy...4/22/2007 (The North Face Couloirs of Flattop)
Two weeks have passed since my climb with Andy and Fabio and I was eager to get back into it. I was not able to attend the climb the previous week of Chaos Couloir on Hallet Peak. This week we decided to attack Flattop from another direction, the north side. This time, we would have an additional member on the climb. Eric would be climbing with us this day. I had met him before climbing at Hidden Falls back in January with Fabio and Dan. We met again at the Bear Lake trail head in Rocky Mountain National Park but this time at 5:00a.m. in order to get an earlier start to beat the heat that might diminish the snow conditions. This approach was longer than the Dragon’s Tooth as well.
We headed out in the dark shortly after arriving. A couple miles into the hike and the sun was coming up over the eastern plains. The weather here this day was different than that of two weeks ago. It was clear down low, but with fast moving high clouds hovering over the divide. I always find it fascinating how the divide seems to hold the clouds back. They just sit there as though they’re running in place. As we neared tree-line, we could sense that the weather was going to get worse. The wind was picking up the closer we came to the divide. We stopped short of the actual timber line to don more cold weather gear and get some water and a bite to eat.
Climbing the rocky slopes below the peaks while heading towards the couloirs was slow going. However, the Odessa Gorge area is gorgeous, and it was easy to get lost in all that majesty and forget about the pain and suffering of the long and cold approach. The immense pinnacle of Notchtop Mountain loomed directly over head to our right. What an impressive wall I thought to myself, I’m going to have to climb that one some day. Out here in the wind, we began searching for couloirs to climb. The reason being is that the ones we came to climb were shrouded in cloud near their tops. There was no way we could see any cornices if they were there. We eyed some couloirs further east on Flattop but deemed them too steep and rocky. We didn’t bring rock gear or harnesses this time. Since we couldn’t see the exits or possible cruxes in these couloirs, we chose to keep heading towards the others in the hopes that the weather would take mercy on us and reveal any hidden dangers that might loom over head.
As fate would have it, the closer we got to our objective, the better the weather became. Fabio got out a pair of binoculars and began scanning the ridge top for overhanging snow. There are three couloirs here. As the cloud veil thinned, we were able to make out a massive cornice in the left most couloir. O.K., scratch that one! We then were able to see the second and third couloirs after a few more minutes. The middle one had a giant overhanging wall of death as well, but the third was clear! That’s the one! Finally, we headed over to the base of the climb and began in earnest.
Eric was in the lead and began kicking steps into the snow and heading up. The snow here was definitely different than on the Dragon’s Tooth. We were post-holing up to our knees and then some! This made for some nice steps and so we never used our crampons! This slope was really steep. We figured it to be at least 60º especially near the middle and top. I was a bit apprehensive looking down at what we had already climbed and what still lay ahead. We began talking about falling here and how wild of a ride it would be! If only we had sleds we thought! Fabio finally told us to shut up about falling! The climbing was good though for the most part. The scenery was again spectacular and the weather was holding.
As we got closer to the top, we entered into a restriction or narrows. I felt more comfortable here than I did down below on the wide snow slope. The rocks provide some kind of a mental comfort to me and I feel better when I’m around that kind of foundation. I guess I feel that if an avalanche were to occur here, it wouldn’t be quite as big as one releasing on such a wide open snow field. In hindsight, it probably wouldn’t make much of a difference though. As we came out of this restriction, the snow conditions began to deteriorate to the point where some of us were not comfortable being on the slope. We had about another 100’ of climbing left and the snow was wind loaded and sloughing off under our feet. It was hard to get a good foot hold without slipping back a little. Chunks of snow were rolling down from the lead climber’s steps and little slabs were coming loose from under feet as well. I didn’t like this, but there was nothing to do but climb and climb fast.
Soon we topped out to a cold windy summit, safe and relieved to be off the slope. We stowed unnecessary gear, ate and then headed over to descend the gentle slopes of the Ptarmigan snowfields. This was a nice way to descend, but ironically, here we had to use our crampons. The snow on the slope break near the top was hard and icy. Amazing how conditions can be so different in such a short distance! The hike down was uneventful and we made it back to the cars after a couple breaks here and there for food and photography. As usual, we ended up at Ed’s Cantina in Estes for beers and burritos! Again, we made plans for the next outing! What a spring it was shaping up to be!
Otis...5/6/2007 (Messages in Snow)
It was another two weeks before I could get out in the mountains again. I had spent the previous week climbing rock at North Table Mountain in Golden trying to take advantage of the great weather and heat we were getting that weekend. As was routine, the group had been emailing each other back and forth trying to find a place and day to climb. This time we decided on an unnamed couloir on the south flank of Otis Peak. This line was spotted by Fabio the week before when he climbed the snowfields of Powell Peak. Otis lies due south of Hallet and is situated across from The Gash and the Sharkstooth below Andrew’s Glacier. This time we would have five in the group; Andy, Fabio, Nelson, Dan and me.
The weather across most of Colorado had been pretty bad over the past couple of days. A strong weather system had parked itself over the western U.S. and dumped snow, rain, sleet and hail. However, we thought we saw an opportunity in the weather to get in a quick climb during a lull in the system on Sunday morning. We arrived at the Glacier Gorge trail head at 5:30a.m. for the hike in. After suiting up in the parking lot, we began the trek into Glacier Gorge. The weather was beautiful; sunny skies, a brisk wind and cold. The hike in was good, but this time, similar to what happened on our Dragon’s Tooth approach, we got off trail and it took a bit of bushwhacking to get into the area of the climb. The snow was deep in the trees and post-holing became a problem at some times.
Finally, after breaking out near tree line next to the Loch, we were greeted with the magnificent views of Thatchtop Mountain, Taylor Peak, Powell Peak and Otis Peak. The weather was cold, a bit windy but sunny and perfect for climbing. After a bit more hiking, we entered the area of Andrew’s Glacier and skirted along side Otis’s south flank. The most magnificent views I think I’ve seen to date in Rocky Mountain National Park were to be had here, this day. The Gash was on our left and as we got closer to the intended couloir, the striking north face of the Sharkstooth came into view as well. These drainages just keep getting better and better, and I now know why this is a national park.
By now the sun was really shining bright. As we ascended the apron to the climb, we began to notice some wet slides over on Taylor. However, we felt o.k. since those slopes were facing directly east and were completely exposed to the sun. Our climb would be mostly in shade for the next several hours. There are many interesting couloirs on Otis’s south side. I want to climb them all! We eyed some we thought we could climb and they looked really fun. However, we were able to see some vertical ice blocking our ascent. Normally this wouldn’t be a factor, but we didn’t come prepared to climb ice and the season was not quite in after the warm spells we’ve been having. They’ll have to wait until next year perhaps. Finally we found our couloir. It looked very doable and we were eager to get into it. After donning crampons, helmets and axes, we headed up towards the difficulties of the climb. The snow down low was good, with mixed patches of soft stuff, intermingled with hard/icy snow. As we reached the first crux of rock, we noticed a thin covering of ice on the rocks and hard ice/snow in the middle. We entered a bottleneck and had to wait our turns to go up over the ice/rock step.
Fabio was in the lead and made it over the first half of the crux with Dan following. I was third, followed by Nelson and then Andy. This was a spectacular climb. Similar to the Dragon’s Tail but with more rock steps and interesting twists and bottlenecks up higher. The walls were closer and taller I think as well. Beautiful granite walls closed in all around us blocking most of the sky. Looking back one is greeted by the incredible views of the Sharkstooth…what a place! After Dan made it past and it was my turn, I began front pointing up the ice and used both of my ice tools. I found good purchase with the picks into the hard snow and was able to climb it easily. The first half of this crux brings you to a large van sized boulder. You must then traverse right a bit and then up again. From behind this boulder, I stopped to get some pictures of Nelson and Andy ascending below me. This stop would turn out to be very fortunate for me. Since neither of them had ice tools, but only a single mountaineering axe with them, they tried to find a line to their left around the ice. Andy began climbing to his left and found an easier route up into some snow on top of large boulders. Nelson was still continuing up in the bottleneck in order to get into position to climb out to where Andy was.
Since Andy has already done a trip report for this climb, I’m only going to relay my personal experiences here about the avalanche.
It happened quickly…shouting from above. Rock fall? I thought. O.K., just keep it tight against this boulder, I’m outta harms way. But Nelson! He’s out in the open, in the bottleneck! I look down to see him pull himself in tight to the slope while worriedly scanning the couloir above.
“Is that an avalanche?” yelled Andy to Dan.
“AVALANCHE!!!” I heard someone yell from above.
Really? Like for real…a real live avalanche? Nah…couldn’t be.
But then I heard it coming. I didn’t panic, I didn’t freak out, I felt calm but did begin running the ‘what ifs’ through my mind, but there simply was no time to fashion an emotion. A split second later I was engulfed in a white rumbling fury. I could only think of comparing it to laying on some railroad tracks as a freight train goes screaming overhead. I don’t remember if I closed my eyes or not. Were there rocks in this thing? Oh shit…what about Nelson? Did it hit Andy? Did Fabio and Dan go tumbling by me in all that white rage? I was in a white room with no windows. Snow crashed down around me, above me and over me. Vortices of spin drift were tickling my face and covering me with fine crystals. Am I going to be buried alive?
Then it was over. Almost as soon as it began, it was over. I just sat there for a moment stunned, listening for more. When I thought it was safe I looked back to see Andy brushing himself off but Nelson was gone. That was the scariest part of the whole ordeal. I was relieved when Andy was in contact with him below. It was also a relief to know that Dan and Fabio were o.k. as well. Dan had taken shelter behind a boulder like me but Fabio had only a split second to thrust his axes into the snow and hold on for the ride of his life! He fought the avalanche mano-e-mano. He said it tried to force him down to the left and so he fought back and kept his stance as the snow pressure built up into him!
We were alive and pretty much unscathed. Ironically, Fabio was just about to call the climb off due to poor snow conditions he encountered up higher when the avalanche hit. We decided to call it a day and get Nelson back to the car. That couloir will be there for a long time. No sense in continuing climbing in those conditions. The usual tradition of dining at Ed’s Cantina was in order, thus we headed to Estes without further ado. Nelson was a trooper and carried all his gear back to the car himself even after our offers to assist. He suffered a pulled hamstring, re-injured a calf muscle and cut one finger. I have nothing but respect for the man.
PrognosisAfter all this, I am by no means cured. It would take an antidote a lot more significant than an avalanche to cure my ‘disease’. Sure, I learned some lessons that day and my skills-in-da-hills have increased. As Fabio stated, “You learn something every time you go out.” That is true. I have learned to appreciate the beauty of the alpine realm, the power of snow and the peacefulness I get out of climbing. I have been drawn to the mountains since I was a kid living back east. It is a dream come true for me to be here and doing what I love. I am happy to have found friends who share with me this passion for climbing. This would likely never have happened without SummitPost. I really like the following quote from another SP member whom I have not yet met, but who is an acquaintance of Andy’s.
It’s by SP member Alan Ellis and it really rings true for me as well: "To most, SummitPost is about the mountains, but to me, it's about the people." Take this quote of mine to heart. It's the great people on this site that makes it what it is. Because of this site, I have lifetime friends.
See you in the hills!
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Rocky Mountain National Park > Colorado Snow Intro: Four Weeks, Three Trips, Two Successes and One Close Call
