The Long Run IV+/V- UIAA 900 m. | Climbing the South-East Ridge of Mount Ortholithi (Greece)

Overview

“The Long Run” (IV+/V-, 900 m.) first ascent was most probably in 2001 by legendary climbers Jim Titt and Hans Weninger. The route follows the south-eastern ridge of Mount Ortholithi, offering an atmospheric climb overlooking the Saronic Gulf and Ermionida. The route can be described as an “adventure route” with great potential for free route selection and does not present any real climbing difficulties, with the exception of several parts of loose rocks.

Getting There

From Athens one needs to drive towards Epidavros and from there should follow the road to Ermionida. Just after Trachia village, should follow the road to Karatzas village and from there to Choriza.

Total distance from Athens: 150 km

About 1,2 km after arriving in Choriza ( 37.523801, 23.258523 ), we can leave the car and start the approach hike.

The approach hike is an easy hike of about 10 minutes.

Route Description

See complete route description here: https://olympusmountaineering.com/2021/02/07/the-long-run-iv-v-uiaa-900-m-climbing-the-south-east-ridge-of-mount-ortholithi/

R0 – R1

The route starts with the first pitch (30 m.) exactly at the base of the south-east ridge (37.523737, 23.253851) on a IV UIAA slab that although is easy to protect we have to pay attention to the various loose blocks that are handing above us. Once we pass the first buttress, we continue on top of the ridge III UIAA and on our right we find a ledge, but we continue onto the ridge and specifically we pass a characteristic IV UIAA boulder.

Having passed through the characteristic boulder, we reach a ledge with rubbles and we create a belay with a large sling or a kevlar cordelette.

R1 – R2

From R1 to R2, we climb on a slab IV + UIAA for about 10 meters. Once we pass this slab, we continue on the ridge. At this point the ridge is about III UIAA and does not present any particular difficulty. At about 50 m. we belay in a characteristic lower point of the ridge.

R2 – R3

From R2 to R3, we follow the ridge (without protection or being on a rope) with scrambling III UIAA. This pitch is about 150 meters until we reach an obvious ledge. At this point, the view towards the Argosaronic sea is becoming unique.

R3 – R4

From R3 to R4, there is another passage of IV UIAA degree about 4 m. which ends again on the ridge. This passage can be well secured, but the lead climber should be extra careful due to eventual loose rocks.

R4 – R5

From R4 to R5, the terrain becomes very easy with a slope of up to 40 °, and is essentially a fairly uphill walk (with minimal scrambling). We go uphill up to the point where we see the last pitch, basically a vertical slab. Before the slab, we belay so we can climb the last pitch.

R5 – R6

From R5 to R6, we have the last part of the ridge, where the crux of the route is located. Just after the relay, we have two small slabs of IV UIAA and we go towards the edge of the ridge. At that point, we place good protection (nuts or friends) and make the necessary moves to climb a pass of about 8 m and a degree of difficulty V-UIAA.

This particular passage is not difficult to climb, but due to the exposure, the movements of the lead climber should be careful. Once we complete this passage, the route is practically completed and we have a few meters of walking and scrambling of maximum III UIAA.

Essential Gear

For repeatingg the route one needs the following items:

- Wire nuts 1-10

- Friends/Cam up to #3

- Slings/Lanyards

- Kevlar cordelette

- 1 χ 60μ. rope or 2 χ 60 1/2 ropes

The route was done by using temporary protection. Belays are done with temporary protection

External Links

https://olympusmountaineering.com/2021/02/07/the-long-run-iv-v-uiaa-900-m-climbing-the-south-east-ridge-of-mount-ortholithi/