I also taught myself to climb, and recently reclimbed two of my first trad climbs. Interestingly there was not as much good pro on them as I remember. I feel very thankful that I made it through that initial learning curve.
At one time or another I think most climbers find themselves in tough, dangerous situations, some with better outcomes than others. After years of successful lead climbing, I still feel inadequate In my full ability to handle a seriously sticky situation. I really want to learn wilderness first aid and also back country rescue. I think there is much more to leading this type of trip than just being a good climber.
I started leading outside without any indoor training although I did take a climbing basics course and a private leaders course which taught me years worth of tricks. The areas I first climbed though were very populated crags namely the Gunk's where there are many friendly people around and help is just a shout away. Perhaps these types of areas are a better way to start with leading trad.
Yeah, that's exactly what I did following the this incident. I've since hired guides for some private instruction and I've spent some multiday trips climbing in the Gunks. I feel much more comfortable with trad now... plus I have been feeding my gear addiction by expanding my trad rack. Active pro is so nice.
Yeah, that initial learning curve is a bi***. Glad you made it through this one. I've got my own "beginner epic" stories, though I have to say, none quite as harrowing as this one. Wow. I'm quite confident a lot of personal growth happened in that 24 hr timeframe. Question: why didn't you rappel down to your friends? Not enough gear to build two anchors?
That was the thing. I had run out all of my rope, so I had used most of what constituted my pretty lame trad rack at the time. You're right about the second part though. The bomber gear was used up on the anchors. Plus, the rappel distance would've been half the length of the single rope. The way it seemed at the time was that even if I could rappel back to my friends, we would be three climbers stuck beneath a huge block and burning through gear to the point where we might not even be able to safely rappel back into the Ravine. Certainly something I don't want to have to repeat. Thankfully, my gear addiction has given me a significant boost in what i am able to climb safely... that and more training =P.
I really liked this article. I've climbed for years, but still have not lead a trad route. Lots of sport leads in Rumney, and follows in the Gunks but I'm from Kansas and never have enough time to really learn. The most important things I've learned though is that I should never feel stupid for asking anything, never feel nerdy for being too careful, and if I EVER feel like "I've got this," then that is when I need a kick in the head. I'm glad that you had enough confidence to write this up so others can learn.
I could have written this story about myself and my experience in Hunginton Ravine as a novice climber back in 1974. Took a big ripper in the ravine and all of my protection zippered except a #3 wired stopper.
Having two sons not too much older than you, I can understand your parent's reaction. On the other hand, I'm sure they've got their own stories to tell, although maybe not quite as entertaining as yours. Glad you all made it home safely.
Regardless of how "experienced" you are, you are bound to take a whipper. Learn, and live to climb again.
Climber Note:Is this the 5.7 Cloudwalker route????
And whippers are not a bad thing. Sure on runout terrain and on terrain where the pieces are suspect, there not good but I know many people that think if they fall 5 feet above there last piece which is a bomber number 1, there dead. The limits have been pushed in climbing by people doing just that, falling. Look at Chris Sharma. What route was it (Jumbo Love?) that he continued to take 100 foot falls because the climbing was so hard he could not clip! Insane.
Thanks for posting the TR. Great read and glad your all safe!
Great story, sounds like an adventure for sure. Me and my friend had a similar experience ice climbing, except there wasn't anyone to come get us. I learned about 30% of everything right there. :)
norco17 - Dec 21, 2010 2:48 pm - Voted 10/10
FamiliarI also taught myself to climb, and recently reclimbed two of my first trad climbs. Interestingly there was not as much good pro on them as I remember. I feel very thankful that I made it through that initial learning curve.
CSUMarmot - Dec 21, 2010 6:45 pm - Voted 10/10
AlthoughI know nothing at all about climbing, I'd guess that an much earlier start would have alleviated some of your problems
rasgoat - Dec 21, 2010 7:44 pm - Voted 10/10
Phew!At one time or another I think most climbers find themselves in tough, dangerous situations, some with better outcomes than others. After years of successful lead climbing, I still feel inadequate In my full ability to handle a seriously sticky situation. I really want to learn wilderness first aid and also back country rescue. I think there is much more to leading this type of trip than just being a good climber.
I started leading outside without any indoor training although I did take a climbing basics course and a private leaders course which taught me years worth of tricks. The areas I first climbed though were very populated crags namely the Gunk's where there are many friendly people around and help is just a shout away. Perhaps these types of areas are a better way to start with leading trad.
RyderS - Dec 22, 2010 12:01 am - Hasn't voted
Re: Phew!Yeah, that's exactly what I did following the this incident. I've since hired guides for some private instruction and I've spent some multiday trips climbing in the Gunks. I feel much more comfortable with trad now... plus I have been feeding my gear addiction by expanding my trad rack. Active pro is so nice.
hikerbrian - Dec 22, 2010 9:37 am - Hasn't voted
Holy. F.Yeah, that initial learning curve is a bi***. Glad you made it through this one. I've got my own "beginner epic" stories, though I have to say, none quite as harrowing as this one. Wow. I'm quite confident a lot of personal growth happened in that 24 hr timeframe. Question: why didn't you rappel down to your friends? Not enough gear to build two anchors?
RyderS - Dec 22, 2010 3:21 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Holy. F.That was the thing. I had run out all of my rope, so I had used most of what constituted my pretty lame trad rack at the time. You're right about the second part though. The bomber gear was used up on the anchors. Plus, the rappel distance would've been half the length of the single rope. The way it seemed at the time was that even if I could rappel back to my friends, we would be three climbers stuck beneath a huge block and burning through gear to the point where we might not even be able to safely rappel back into the Ravine. Certainly something I don't want to have to repeat. Thankfully, my gear addiction has given me a significant boost in what i am able to climb safely... that and more training =P.
mjosoba - Dec 26, 2010 12:01 pm - Hasn't voted
Close to home.I really liked this article. I've climbed for years, but still have not lead a trad route. Lots of sport leads in Rumney, and follows in the Gunks but I'm from Kansas and never have enough time to really learn. The most important things I've learned though is that I should never feel stupid for asking anything, never feel nerdy for being too careful, and if I EVER feel like "I've got this," then that is when I need a kick in the head. I'm glad that you had enough confidence to write this up so others can learn.
RyderS - Dec 27, 2010 12:44 am - Hasn't voted
Re: Ha Ha!Haha, well, the other half Asian was not featured in this particular adventure, and trust me, a lot of work has been had since then.
Sierra Ledge Rat - Dec 27, 2010 8:49 am - Voted 10/10
Sounds strangely familiar...I could have written this story about myself and my experience in Hunginton Ravine as a novice climber back in 1974. Took a big ripper in the ravine and all of my protection zippered except a #3 wired stopper.
RyderS - Dec 30, 2010 7:06 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Sounds strangely familiar...Damn, a #3?! Makes my #10 sound like a luxurious piece to fall on.
Jerry L - Dec 27, 2010 1:49 pm - Voted 10/10
Well WrittenHaving two sons not too much older than you, I can understand your parent's reaction. On the other hand, I'm sure they've got their own stories to tell, although maybe not quite as entertaining as yours. Glad you all made it home safely.
gabr1 - Dec 28, 2010 4:51 am - Voted 10/10
:-)Luckily everything went for the best. I really liked the article, Thank you.
kpthomson - Dec 30, 2010 9:46 am - Hasn't voted
Climb long enough....Regardless of how "experienced" you are, you are bound to take a whipper. Learn, and live to climb again.
Climber Note:Is this the 5.7 Cloudwalker route????
noahs213 - Dec 30, 2010 7:56 pm - Voted 10/10
Re: Climb long enough....And whippers are not a bad thing. Sure on runout terrain and on terrain where the pieces are suspect, there not good but I know many people that think if they fall 5 feet above there last piece which is a bomber number 1, there dead. The limits have been pushed in climbing by people doing just that, falling. Look at Chris Sharma. What route was it (Jumbo Love?) that he continued to take 100 foot falls because the climbing was so hard he could not clip! Insane.
Thanks for posting the TR. Great read and glad your all safe!
MontuckyLucky - Dec 31, 2010 6:38 pm - Hasn't voted
Quick learning curveGreat story, sounds like an adventure for sure. Me and my friend had a similar experience ice climbing, except there wasn't anyone to come get us. I learned about 30% of everything right there. :)
ElGreco - Jan 1, 2011 11:59 pm - Voted 10/10
All's wellThat ends well. Very well written. I hope you don't have to write one of those again.