Very impressive, especially for someone who is 61 years old!
I did that route in spring several years ago, and thought the crux was a short, 5.8ish offwidth near the top. Did you encounter that? If so, how was it in the dark?
Sam, on the Ibrium Tower, there are several ways to go. The way we went, we encountered one 5.8 section on the tower, a left facing hand crack (see Miguel's picture leading it) and another 5.8 section with a short 5.8 offwidth you mention. The climbing in boots, in winter, with a pack and in the dark (on the offwidth)was just plain hard.
Thank you guys, it was an awesome trip. Miguel, who has done just about everything in some 38 years of climbing, said to me Wednesday evening, wasn't that a great trip? Maybe the best for us?
We all think that the last climb was our best, and, sometimes, it's true. This one really was.
As the Scots would say, one hasn't climbed a route until it's done in "full conditions." Great work! I am totally pleased that this winter game is becoming established in California.
Thanks Hamik. This California winter game will probably never be a game for too many people. Someone told me a long time ago, why do that when one can go to the beach?
Awesome job, you guys! Inspiring. Surprised that it was so cold last weekend. I thought that the weather finally started to turn as we were coming down Whitney two weeks ago
I wonder if Venusian Blind or Sunribbon have been climbed in the winter!??
Hi Misha, It was very cold on the Arete. The wind was the worst thing, chilling us to the bone. I read your note about the E. Butt., a damm good show by you guys in the winter. Sun Ribbon Arete was done years ago (in the early 80s?) by George Lowe and Brock Wagstaff. They both had a bit of frostbite after the climb.
The Venusian Blind Arete was (to my knowledge) not done in the winter.
The route is overlooking the Third Lake and down to the North Fork Canyon. At places it is steep, so one gets good pictures of it. Glad you liked it. Cheers, A.
EricChu - Mar 26, 2010 5:04 pm - Voted 10/10
Great report!And the pictures are great - especially the "Moon goddess arête in winter"!
Snowball - Mar 26, 2010 5:35 pm - Hasn't voted
sweet!nice work! u guys rocked it!!! good write up and photos to boot.
JedSMG - Mar 26, 2010 5:39 pm - Voted 9/10
Very Nice work!Well done! Those are serious efforts. A friend did the Sun Ribbon in January of 08, and he's still not recovered :-).
cp0915 - Mar 26, 2010 5:51 pm - Voted 10/10
Most excellent!****
Sam Page - Mar 26, 2010 5:53 pm - Hasn't voted
AwesomeVery impressive, especially for someone who is 61 years old!
I did that route in spring several years ago, and thought the crux was a short, 5.8ish offwidth near the top. Did you encounter that? If so, how was it in the dark?
asmrz - Mar 26, 2010 6:14 pm - Hasn't voted
Re AwesomeSam, on the Ibrium Tower, there are several ways to go. The way we went, we encountered one 5.8 section on the tower, a left facing hand crack (see Miguel's picture leading it) and another 5.8 section with a short 5.8 offwidth you mention. The climbing in boots, in winter, with a pack and in the dark (on the offwidth)was just plain hard.
asmrz - Mar 26, 2010 7:01 pm - Hasn't voted
RETo: MauriceRavel, Snowball, JedSMG and cp0915
Thank you guys, it was an awesome trip. Miguel, who has done just about everything in some 38 years of climbing, said to me Wednesday evening, wasn't that a great trip? Maybe the best for us?
We all think that the last climb was our best, and, sometimes, it's true. This one really was.
Edited spelling (obviously)!
mdostby - Mar 26, 2010 7:21 pm - Voted 10/10
HardcoreNice job guys!!!
hamik - Mar 26, 2010 7:50 pm - Voted 10/10
Full conditions!As the Scots would say, one hasn't climbed a route until it's done in "full conditions." Great work! I am totally pleased that this winter game is becoming established in California.
asmrz - Mar 26, 2010 8:36 pm - Hasn't voted
Re Full conditionsThanks Hamik. This California winter game will probably never be a game for too many people. Someone told me a long time ago, why do that when one can go to the beach?
asmrz - Mar 26, 2010 8:41 pm - Hasn't voted
Re HardcoreThanks Mike, this was hard for me at this point of my life. So happy we could complete it.
Sam Mills - Mar 27, 2010 10:02 am - Voted 10/10
Congrats!Fantastic climb, Alois. Thanks for the TR.
asmrz - Mar 27, 2010 11:04 am - Hasn't voted
Re CongratsThank you Sam, you are welcome for the TR.
Misha - Mar 27, 2010 1:38 pm - Hasn't voted
Wicked!Awesome job, you guys! Inspiring. Surprised that it was so cold last weekend. I thought that the weather finally started to turn as we were coming down Whitney two weeks ago
I wonder if Venusian Blind or Sunribbon have been climbed in the winter!??
asmrz - Mar 27, 2010 2:52 pm - Hasn't voted
Re wickedHi Misha, It was very cold on the Arete. The wind was the worst thing, chilling us to the bone. I read your note about the E. Butt., a damm good show by you guys in the winter. Sun Ribbon Arete was done years ago (in the early 80s?) by George Lowe and Brock Wagstaff. They both had a bit of frostbite after the climb.
The Venusian Blind Arete was (to my knowledge) not done in the winter.
asmrz - Mar 28, 2010 11:51 am - Hasn't voted
Re Top StuffThe route is overlooking the Third Lake and down to the North Fork Canyon. At places it is steep, so one gets good pictures of it. Glad you liked it. Cheers, A.
KathyW - Mar 28, 2010 4:14 pm - Voted 10/10
Great!What an amazingly beautiful trip/climb.
Romain - Mar 28, 2010 4:37 pm - Hasn't voted
OutstandingCongratulations.
Liba Kopeckova - Mar 28, 2010 9:46 pm - Voted 10/10
great trip report...congratulations...are you Czech?
lasvegaswraith - Mar 29, 2010 12:25 am - Voted 10/10
Nice!Kickass Gentlemen...congrats!