when you would make it out this way. You were unlucky with the weather - the friction climbing is harder not only when wet but also when cold. It's amazing how much better the granite here grips with a bit of warmth. That said, Stone is way too f**king hot in the summer.
Yeah, figures - we have a lot of that bad weather luck wherever we go :)
Fun stuff in a scary sort of way. Would love to go back. Thanks for the inspiring photos before. Cheers.
just from reading your description of White Way Direct P2. Good stuff. Too bad you got rained out of Looking Glass. Stone Mountain doesn't look like it has all those nice "eyebrow" features that Looking Glass has; is that the case?
Chief - many thanks for stoking the fire for us to get out there...saw that photo of yours on the 10+ slab years ago & wanted to see stone mtn. since. Scary & humbling (5.8 was the best I could manage on this outing & was still scared shitless most of the time) but I would like to go back. Every route feels like a big achievement there. Best regards & cheers.
I used to hate Stone Mtn when I was in NC. Luckily my partner dragged me up it a few times because now I really miss the mindf*ck of committing to an invisible smear. If you want some phenomenal friction climbing head over to Laurel Knob. It will blow your mind.
If you wanna get down to some fairly humbling slab climbing, get down to Tollhouse or Courtright Reservoir. Tollhouse brags of the very fine Tollhouse Traverse (5.5) and some will debate that this route is the best route for its grade in the country. Here are a few routes that provide a one or two bolts more, so the pucker factor is a grade less but challenging nonetheless: Balls (5.9) and Wandering Taoist (5.9). Courtright has a few routes that I nearly messed my trousers on.....Welcome To Courtright (.10a) and The Paraclete (5.10 scary.....I NEVER wanna go back to that one! EVER!! Talk about men crying like babies!)
Hey Dave, the term "mind f..k" keeps coming up with these trad bolted slab routes...think it's highly accurate. Those things are humbling - I was scared shitless on the 5.8's at stone so I do understand the notion of respecting these old school grades... yet I keep thinking about going back. Hopefully someday. thanks for the visit Dave.
The same can be said about Enchanted Rock State Park in Texas, I think. I was in the middle of one of the 5.9 routes there a few months back (3 bolts in 130'!)....frozen at the crux and making the chickensh*t decision to back off, downclimbing 5.9 friction moves to a bolt. Said bolt was at the edge of a mantle I just barely pulled off (an ugly ankle breaking slab below). And wwouldn't cha know it.....it started to rain! I LOVE SLAB CLIMBING!!
I've decided you're a bad influence on me. Your reports make me want to leave straight from work and go climb! (not that that takes allot) Thanks for the great pictures. Btw, glad to hear you and Shirley made it back out to Endgame post the shoulder mishap.
Thank you very much for kind feedback Daryl - I got same sorts of issues after a (weekday) morning round up of the climbing sites...sp, cc, supertopo,....most of me wants to say "f.. it!" & run out the door!
WoundedKnee - Jan 6, 2010 11:39 pm - Voted 10/10
I was wonderingwhen you would make it out this way. You were unlucky with the weather - the friction climbing is harder not only when wet but also when cold. It's amazing how much better the granite here grips with a bit of warmth. That said, Stone is way too f**king hot in the summer.
rpc - Jan 7, 2010 1:33 am - Hasn't voted
Re: I was wonderingYeah, figures - we have a lot of that bad weather luck wherever we go :)
Fun stuff in a scary sort of way. Would love to go back. Thanks for the inspiring photos before. Cheers.
EricChu - Jan 7, 2010 11:03 am - Voted 10/10
Good report!Well written and excellent images - the one I commented on specially I really found spectacular! Cheers,
Eric (MauriceRavel)
rpc - Jan 7, 2010 11:22 am - Hasn't voted
Re: Good report!Hi Eric - thank you very much for the nice word!
drjohnso1182 - Jan 7, 2010 11:54 pm - Voted 10/10
Sweaty palmsjust from reading your description of White Way Direct P2. Good stuff. Too bad you got rained out of Looking Glass. Stone Mountain doesn't look like it has all those nice "eyebrow" features that Looking Glass has; is that the case?
rpc - Jan 8, 2010 1:27 am - Hasn't voted
Re: Sweaty palmsNo eyebrow features there...wanted to see these things after reading about them but no luck on Looking Glass ...bad weather :(
Oh well...next time. Thanks for visiting and the kind words!
rpc - Jan 10, 2010 2:03 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Ahhhhh....Chief - many thanks for stoking the fire for us to get out there...saw that photo of yours on the 10+ slab years ago & wanted to see stone mtn. since. Scary & humbling (5.8 was the best I could manage on this outing & was still scared shitless most of the time) but I would like to go back. Every route feels like a big achievement there. Best regards & cheers.
Joe White - Jan 10, 2010 9:25 pm - Voted 10/10
I love readingyour trip reports!
Thanks brotha!
rpc - Jan 11, 2010 11:23 am - Hasn't voted
Re: I love readingJoe, thanks for the good word man!
graham - Jan 11, 2010 11:06 am - Voted 10/10
Bravo!Excellent read & photos, thanks for sharing. I always enjoy your trip reports and love how you two are getting things done 24x7x365!
rpc - Jan 11, 2010 11:23 am - Hasn't voted
Re: Bravo!Graham, thank you much for the kind words!
radek
EverydayExplorer - Jan 11, 2010 11:42 am - Hasn't voted
Oh StoneI used to hate Stone Mtn when I was in NC. Luckily my partner dragged me up it a few times because now I really miss the mindf*ck of committing to an invisible smear. If you want some phenomenal friction climbing head over to Laurel Knob. It will blow your mind.
rpc - Jan 11, 2010 12:07 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Oh StoneMindf..k is right on! wanted to check out Laurel & LG but the weather was no cooperating. Hopefully can go back some day. cheers.
Dave Daly - Jan 11, 2010 5:51 pm - Voted 10/10
5.5 OpinionIf you wanna get down to some fairly humbling slab climbing, get down to Tollhouse or Courtright Reservoir. Tollhouse brags of the very fine Tollhouse Traverse (5.5) and some will debate that this route is the best route for its grade in the country. Here are a few routes that provide a one or two bolts more, so the pucker factor is a grade less but challenging nonetheless: Balls (5.9) and Wandering Taoist (5.9). Courtright has a few routes that I nearly messed my trousers on.....Welcome To Courtright (.10a) and The Paraclete (5.10 scary.....I NEVER wanna go back to that one! EVER!! Talk about men crying like babies!)
rpc - Jan 11, 2010 5:57 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: 5.5 OpinionHey Dave, the term "mind f..k" keeps coming up with these trad bolted slab routes...think it's highly accurate. Those things are humbling - I was scared shitless on the 5.8's at stone so I do understand the notion of respecting these old school grades... yet I keep thinking about going back. Hopefully someday. thanks for the visit Dave.
Dave Daly - Jan 13, 2010 12:27 am - Voted 10/10
Re: 5.5 OpinionThe same can be said about Enchanted Rock State Park in Texas, I think. I was in the middle of one of the 5.9 routes there a few months back (3 bolts in 130'!)....frozen at the crux and making the chickensh*t decision to back off, downclimbing 5.9 friction moves to a bolt. Said bolt was at the edge of a mantle I just barely pulled off (an ugly ankle breaking slab below). And wwouldn't cha know it.....it started to rain! I LOVE SLAB CLIMBING!!
DarylAllan - Jan 12, 2010 3:18 pm - Hasn't voted
Great report!I've decided you're a bad influence on me. Your reports make me want to leave straight from work and go climb! (not that that takes allot) Thanks for the great pictures. Btw, glad to hear you and Shirley made it back out to Endgame post the shoulder mishap.
Can't wait to see more reports,
Happy climbing!
d
rpc - Jan 12, 2010 4:01 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Great report!Thank you very much for kind feedback Daryl - I got same sorts of issues after a (weekday) morning round up of the climbing sites...sp, cc, supertopo,....most of me wants to say "f.. it!" & run out the door!
Sierra Ledge Rat - Jan 12, 2010 6:39 pm - Voted 10/10
CoolGreat report, I gotta get out there, only about 6 hours from here!
rpc - Jan 13, 2010 11:25 am - Hasn't voted
Re: CoolThank you Sir!