Fantastic job on this page! Great photos. Since 5.7 A-something (let alone 5.11) is not in my vocabulary, I'll have to appreciate it from the comfort of my chair.
Thank you for the kind comments and the good vote. 11something is not in my vocabulary either, but the aid-way of getting up there is not that bad really.
Ya, dat's a good page. Very nice writing and excellent photos. Looks like a ton of fun. I love that picture of you on the summit with that huge rack. Thanks for the contribution.
Thanks man. Talk about a gear overkill!!!!! Ended up using like 4 small cams, 4 nuts, and a tricam....Oh well, at least I get to look like an ass on the summit :)
I guess I don't know if it's in his new editions. It's on p. 73 of my old Brown Beckey, 1st Edition, 2nd Printing (1979). Maybe he took it out. It's listed at 4,377 ft.
Here's what he has to say for the write-up:
"Stein's Pillar is a rhyolite monolith of amazing shape. Because it overhangs profusely on all sides, a member of the first climbing party described it as 'the most terrifying sight I have ever seen.' Its height above the lightly-forested hillside in the Ochoco National Forest near Prineville, Oregon, ranges from 375 to 500 ft.
"The first ascent was made by Donald J. Baars, Floyd Richardson, and Glenn Richardson in July 1950 after various attempts spread out over several years. The successful effort began on July 11; one member had to forgo the summit due to sore stomach muscles derived from the overhanging drilling.
"An early unknown party, about 1920, left a rope ladder hanging about 50ft above the first major ledge on the east face. The next attempt was by Baars, Leonard Rice, and Russell Johnson, who reached a position above the 'cave.' A new 4-day effort almost reached the last ledge, and almost ended in disaster when a rope wore through.
"It should be noted that on the original ascent 110 holes (5/8") were drilled, but most of the bolts were removed. Some of these holes are now unnecessary, and some bolts have been replaced. On the second ascent by Fred Beckey, Steve Marts, Dave Beckstead, and Eric Bjornstad, it was found that 5/8" expansion bolts and stubby 3/4" angle pitons fitted the holes best. Enlarging of holes has now required wider pitons to jam and stick; the best selection is angles 1" and larger, Leepers, wedges, and thick horizontals.
"References: 1950 and 1966 Mazamas; 1951, 1963, and 1967 A.A.J.; Dec. 1964 Summit; Dodge, N.A., A Climber's Guide to Oregon"
This is all useful information that you could incorporate into the main page, so long as you quote it, obviously. The bolts mentioned above may be some of these.
So having that old brown Beckey has its benefits from time to time.
One thing I really dislike that he's done with the newest editions is his taking out the elevation for the peaks in the index. Now it's just peak with page number. This was probably done to save space and printing costs, but it's a big reduction in useful information. I've told Fred as much in correspondence. Next time I see him in person I'm gonna give him a lungful. Well, maybe a squeak.
jhalz - Nov 3, 2004 12:01 am - Voted 10/10
Untitled CommentRadek
Nice work on the page, lots of great info and inspiring photos. Keep up the great climbing.
Jason
rpc - Nov 3, 2004 12:00 pm - Hasn't voted
Untitled CommentThanks Jason. Appreciate the good comments.
radek
Nelson - Nov 3, 2004 8:57 am - Voted 10/10
Untitled CommentFantastic job on this page! Great photos. Since 5.7 A-something (let alone 5.11) is not in my vocabulary, I'll have to appreciate it from the comfort of my chair.
rpc - Nov 3, 2004 2:31 pm - Hasn't voted
Untitled CommentNelson,
Thank you for the kind comments and the good vote. 11something is not in my vocabulary either, but the aid-way of getting up there is not that bad really.
Thanks for visiting!
radek
rpc - Nov 3, 2004 2:31 pm - Hasn't voted
Untitled CommentThank you for the good vote.
Martin Cash - Nov 3, 2004 3:02 pm - Voted 10/10
Untitled CommentYa, dat's a good page. Very nice writing and excellent photos. Looks like a ton of fun. I love that picture of you on the summit with that huge rack. Thanks for the contribution.
rpc - Nov 3, 2004 5:00 pm - Hasn't voted
Untitled CommentHey Martin,
Thanks man. Talk about a gear overkill!!!!! Ended up using like 4 small cams, 4 nuts, and a tricam....Oh well, at least I get to look like an ass on the summit :)
William Marler - Nov 3, 2004 4:42 pm - Voted 10/10
Untitled CommentGood page. Cheers William
Dave Daly - Nov 4, 2004 5:01 am - Voted 10/10
Untitled CommentNice page, Bro! Sweet job on sending the NE Face with Shirley. Nice pro : P
rpc - Nov 4, 2004 11:45 am - Hasn't voted
Untitled CommentThanks Dave - appreciate the good words.......that quality Oregon rock!!
rpc - Nov 4, 2004 12:15 pm - Hasn't voted
Untitled CommentHey Shredder, thanks man.
I know a couple of folks here on SP that do way cooler stuff - stuff I WOULD LOVE to do some day.
Appreciate the kind remarks and the good vote.
radek
Klenke - Nov 6, 2004 2:36 pm - Voted 10/10
Untitled CommentI forgot this thing's even in Beckey. It's got to be the only Oregon destination in his (brown) book.
rpc - Nov 7, 2004 11:45 pm - Hasn't voted
Untitled CommentThanks for the vote Paul.
Which edition is it in - I flipped thru. my 3rd ed. and don't see it?
Klenke - Nov 8, 2004 1:07 pm - Voted 10/10
Untitled CommentI guess I don't know if it's in his new editions. It's on p. 73 of my old Brown Beckey, 1st Edition, 2nd Printing (1979). Maybe he took it out. It's listed at 4,377 ft.
Here's what he has to say for the write-up:
"Stein's Pillar is a rhyolite monolith of amazing shape. Because it overhangs profusely on all sides, a member of the first climbing party described it as 'the most terrifying sight I have ever seen.' Its height above the lightly-forested hillside in the Ochoco National Forest near Prineville, Oregon, ranges from 375 to 500 ft.
"The first ascent was made by Donald J. Baars, Floyd Richardson, and Glenn Richardson in July 1950 after various attempts spread out over several years. The successful effort began on July 11; one member had to forgo the summit due to sore stomach muscles derived from the overhanging drilling.
"An early unknown party, about 1920, left a rope ladder hanging about 50ft above the first major ledge on the east face. The next attempt was by Baars, Leonard Rice, and Russell Johnson, who reached a position above the 'cave.' A new 4-day effort almost reached the last ledge, and almost ended in disaster when a rope wore through.
"It should be noted that on the original ascent 110 holes (5/8") were drilled, but most of the bolts were removed. Some of these holes are now unnecessary, and some bolts have been replaced. On the second ascent by Fred Beckey, Steve Marts, Dave Beckstead, and Eric Bjornstad, it was found that 5/8" expansion bolts and stubby 3/4" angle pitons fitted the holes best. Enlarging of holes has now required wider pitons to jam and stick; the best selection is angles 1" and larger, Leepers, wedges, and thick horizontals.
"References: 1950 and 1966 Mazamas; 1951, 1963, and 1967 A.A.J.; Dec. 1964 Summit; Dodge, N.A., A Climber's Guide to Oregon"
This is all useful information that you could incorporate into the main page, so long as you quote it, obviously. The bolts mentioned above may be some of these.
rpc - Nov 8, 2004 11:52 pm - Hasn't voted
Untitled CommentThanks man.
I've included this info. on main page with credit.
Klenke - Nov 9, 2004 12:20 pm - Voted 10/10
Untitled CommentLooks good.
So having that old brown Beckey has its benefits from time to time.
One thing I really dislike that he's done with the newest editions is his taking out the elevation for the peaks in the index. Now it's just peak with page number. This was probably done to save space and printing costs, but it's a big reduction in useful information. I've told Fred as much in correspondence. Next time I see him in person I'm gonna give him a lungful. Well, maybe a squeak.
Don Nelsen - Nov 8, 2004 9:26 pm - Voted 10/10
Untitled CommentExcellent page. Thanks for writing it up.
don
rpc - Nov 8, 2004 10:48 pm - Hasn't voted
Untitled CommentThank you for the good vote Don.
regards,
radek
rpc - Nov 15, 2004 4:33 pm - Hasn't voted
Untitled CommentThanks for the good vote.
rpc - Feb 15, 2005 2:15 pm - Hasn't voted
Untitled CommentThank you for the good vote.