In 2004 a party of HK based climbers attempted an ascent but backed off quickly due to time mismanagement.
In February 2005 two parties of HK (Damian Ryan and Geordie - same party as in 2004) and China (Benjack Phillips and Cosmin Andron) based climbers attempted to climb the main summit following the obvious gully that separates the two peaks and then climb left the mostly rock final pitches. The plan was to complete the climb in a day. The first pitch was an icefall climbed at 3am and for the initial part the neve was good and progress reasonable. Unfortunately with the early morning began an exhausting plodding through deep chest powder snow. With the end of the day approaching and with no reasonable expectation that the summit would be reached in the time-frame proposed the two parties decided to descend by traversing the gully and following a rocky rib back to the icefall. The route was soloed most of the part with the exception of the initial icefall and the gully traverse.
cosmin - Nov 29, 2005 11:02 am - Voted 10/10
Untitled CommentIn 2004 a party of HK based climbers attempted an ascent but backed off quickly due to time mismanagement.
In February 2005 two parties of HK (Damian Ryan and Geordie - same party as in 2004) and China (Benjack Phillips and Cosmin Andron) based climbers attempted to climb the main summit following the obvious gully that separates the two peaks and then climb left the mostly rock final pitches. The plan was to complete the climb in a day. The first pitch was an icefall climbed at 3am and for the initial part the neve was good and progress reasonable. Unfortunately with the early morning began an exhausting plodding through deep chest powder snow. With the end of the day approaching and with no reasonable expectation that the summit would be reached in the time-frame proposed the two parties decided to descend by traversing the gully and following a rocky rib back to the icefall. The route was soloed most of the part with the exception of the initial icefall and the gully traverse.