Thanks Michael. It’s a climb with no redeeming qualities other than local historical significance (as in worse climb in PNW). It seems as dangerous for the 2nd as for leader as amazing amounts of rockfall come down continuously. I don’t know why I’ve been obsessed by it for 3 or 4 years but now I’m just happy it’s over.
I think you'd love it - every ascent of this thing feels like an FA as pin scars disappear quickly (layers of this shit just come off on their own). You should come up here & scope out the NE face if you ever get a chance -- now that's an adventure line! Wish you could read that article I reference about the SA of this formation - Don Baars & partners climbed this shit with home-made pins & biners. Now that is BA**S!! Anyway, thank you for your kind words Chief! My best regards.
Thanks for the gripping account of your experience. Looks like a climb of a lifetime :) I have to ask, what's with the picture of the broken carabiner?
Just glad it wasn't the last climb of the lifetime :)
The biner thing surprised me - it broke so easily when loaded sideways (I'm guess that's what happened) with the funkness device. Thanks for good word Peter.
Both on the climb, your level of courage and, finally, on the superb write-up. Shirley's and your escapades never fail to amaze me. I look forward to scanning "what's new" every morning in the hope of seeing another rpc escapade. Thanks so much for sharing all your tremendous adventures - with this one right up amongst your best ever.
Thank you very much Michael - appreciate you checking this out & the good word.
"Who says old school climbing is dead?"
I'd guess most real climbers today would say that this is not really climbing (aid) and that breaks my heart....OK, not really - could care less :)
Aid climbing is definitely climbing. It's got all the risk and creativity of free climbing. But I do feel sorry for the belayer on these hard aid pitches!
"But I do feel sorry for the belayer on these hard aid pitches!" Esp. on this thing when the belayer keeps dodging massive rockfall -- a miserable climb all around. Thanks again for visiting Michael!
MichaelJ - May 19, 2008 11:02 am - Hasn't voted
Sounds totally sickWell done.
rpc - May 19, 2008 11:24 am - Hasn't voted
Re: Sounds totally sickThanks Michael. It’s a climb with no redeeming qualities other than local historical significance (as in worse climb in PNW). It seems as dangerous for the 2nd as for leader as amazing amounts of rockfall come down continuously. I don’t know why I’ve been obsessed by it for 3 or 4 years but now I’m just happy it’s over.
rpc - May 19, 2008 11:33 am - Hasn't voted
Re: Shit Rock....Chief,
I think you'd love it - every ascent of this thing feels like an FA as pin scars disappear quickly (layers of this shit just come off on their own). You should come up here & scope out the NE face if you ever get a chance -- now that's an adventure line! Wish you could read that article I reference about the SA of this formation - Don Baars & partners climbed this shit with home-made pins & biners. Now that is BA**S!! Anyway, thank you for your kind words Chief! My best regards.
pvalchev - May 19, 2008 1:26 pm - Hasn't voted
I have to pitch in too...Thanks for the gripping account of your experience. Looks like a climb of a lifetime :) I have to ask, what's with the picture of the broken carabiner?
rpc - May 19, 2008 1:30 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: I have to pitch in too...Just glad it wasn't the last climb of the lifetime :)
The biner thing surprised me - it broke so easily when loaded sideways (I'm guess that's what happened) with the funkness device. Thanks for good word Peter.
vancouver islander - May 19, 2008 5:23 pm - Voted 10/10
Another superlative jobBoth on the climb, your level of courage and, finally, on the superb write-up. Shirley's and your escapades never fail to amaze me. I look forward to scanning "what's new" every morning in the hope of seeing another rpc escapade. Thanks so much for sharing all your tremendous adventures - with this one right up amongst your best ever.
Best wishes to Blondie for a full recovery.
Cheers,
Martin
rpc - May 19, 2008 5:38 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Another superlative jobMartin, many thanks for your overly kind words Sir! Oh yeah, Blondie fully recovered within a day pretty much :)
mvs - May 21, 2008 4:56 am - Voted 10/10
Who saysWho says old school climbing is dead? Way to go, just an enthralling read!
rpc - May 21, 2008 12:11 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Who saysThank you very much Michael - appreciate you checking this out & the good word.
"Who says old school climbing is dead?"
I'd guess most real climbers today would say that this is not really climbing (aid) and that breaks my heart....OK, not really - could care less :)
mvs - May 21, 2008 2:25 pm - Voted 10/10
Re: Who saysAid climbing is definitely climbing. It's got all the risk and creativity of free climbing. But I do feel sorry for the belayer on these hard aid pitches!
rpc - May 21, 2008 7:13 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Who says"But I do feel sorry for the belayer on these hard aid pitches!" Esp. on this thing when the belayer keeps dodging massive rockfall -- a miserable climb all around. Thanks again for visiting Michael!
Craig Peer - Jun 13, 2008 1:27 pm - Voted 10/10
Nuts!That thing is just plain nuts! Good TR read - thanks!
rpc - Jun 13, 2008 1:42 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Nuts!Thank you very much Craig! It's hard to believe it saw its first ascent in 1940!!
Ithala - Dec 9, 2019 7:59 pm - Hasn't voted
The webbing around the treeI tied that knot in 1968!
rpc - Dec 9, 2019 8:40 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: The webbing around the treeHello, sent you a private message. Please email me if you get the chance. Regards.