Squeeze Play

Page Type Page Type: Route
Additional Information Route Type: Trad Climbing
Seasons Season: Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter
Additional Information Time Required: Less than two hours
Additional Information Rock Difficulty: 5.10 (YDS)
Additional Information Number of Pitches: 1
Sign the Climber's Log

Approach

This route is on the Cerberus Wall and right accross the shuttle bus stop at Big Bend. From the stop look up and you'll smile at the splitter, you cannot miss it. Cross the road and take the trail with a climber sign on it up to the wall and turn left until the base of the route. This route is just to the right of Cave Route.

Route Description

Squeeze PlayThin hands start.
Squeeze PlayContinues with nice hands.
Squeeze PlayStem the pillar with pro on the right.
Start jamming the splitter crak which starts with thin hands (red camalot) for few moves before becoming nice hands (yellow camalot). Looks like you would go into the corner as the crack looks somewhat broken but it is good so continue jamming. Once at the pillar avoid the wide section, place small gear on the right side and stem against the left wall. Mantle on top of the pillar to the bolt anchors. The route goes into the shade in the afternoon. You can watch people climbing Prodigal Son accros the Virgin River.

Essential Gear

At least two #1, two #2, one #3 BD camalots, small gear from green to red alien and blue and yellow TCUs. Leave the large gear behind as the left side of the pillar is just to wide to protect. Single 60m rope is sufficient to get back to the ground.

Geography