Tugrul - Aug 1, 2022 4:21 am Date Climbed: Jul 27, 2022
Solo
I hiked up 1400m to the Index Station, starting my hike at 2 am. I arrived at the start of the route at 06:30. I had a bar and some water. I then chose to go for the lower part of the ridge, as opposed to the route description saying to join it by the detached boulder on the upper heather/grass slope. This in my opinion is a mistake. The climbing on the lower ridge section is exposed with not so good rock, with a few tricky moves (4a?). After clearing this section I got to the detached boulder and soloed up the corner. I considered the 4c move, but wanted some mental aid so I clipped my 60cm nylon sling in to a piton and did the move. I then unclipped the sling and continued soloing up to the summit, picking the line of least resistance (total 2 hours).
After the summit, I downclimed a few meters to a good abseil point (fully equipted) and avoided the dogy one higher up. I then abseiled 25m. There is now another abseil point, which I then also used for another 15 m. I would actually downclimb this next time, the downclimb is less cumbersome.
I then went down the gully toward the index lift. My night hike bought me 2 hours so I wasn't concerned about rockfall from other climbers coming down the route. Indeed the gully IS prone to rock fall, I set off small cascades myself. So take this in to account before deciding to descent by the gully. Otherwise, its a fairly fast and pleasent downclimb to the index (total 1 hour).
I was back at the carpark at 10:30 am.
klwagar - Feb 24, 2009 1:51 am Date Climbed: Aug 17, 2008
busy route
lots of folks on the route but it was fun anyway. great rock
Only nice (but warm) wetter this summer. You cannot leave the l'index unclimbed. Solid granite and stances in place. Jolly good fun despite the crowds.
Tugrul - Aug 1, 2022 4:21 am Date Climbed: Jul 27, 2022
SoloI hiked up 1400m to the Index Station, starting my hike at 2 am. I arrived at the start of the route at 06:30. I had a bar and some water. I then chose to go for the lower part of the ridge, as opposed to the route description saying to join it by the detached boulder on the upper heather/grass slope. This in my opinion is a mistake. The climbing on the lower ridge section is exposed with not so good rock, with a few tricky moves (4a?). After clearing this section I got to the detached boulder and soloed up the corner. I considered the 4c move, but wanted some mental aid so I clipped my 60cm nylon sling in to a piton and did the move. I then unclipped the sling and continued soloing up to the summit, picking the line of least resistance (total 2 hours).
After the summit, I downclimed a few meters to a good abseil point (fully equipted) and avoided the dogy one higher up. I then abseiled 25m. There is now another abseil point, which I then also used for another 15 m. I would actually downclimb this next time, the downclimb is less cumbersome.
I then went down the gully toward the index lift. My night hike bought me 2 hours so I wasn't concerned about rockfall from other climbers coming down the route. Indeed the gully IS prone to rock fall, I set off small cascades myself. So take this in to account before deciding to descent by the gully. Otherwise, its a fairly fast and pleasent downclimb to the index (total 1 hour).
I was back at the carpark at 10:30 am.
klwagar - Feb 24, 2009 1:51 am Date Climbed: Aug 17, 2008
busy routelots of folks on the route but it was fun anyway. great rock
Leendertschwab - May 2, 2008 7:30 am
SE-ridgeOnly nice (but warm) wetter this summer. You cannot leave the l'index unclimbed. Solid granite and stances in place. Jolly good fun despite the crowds.
Gripped - Sep 15, 2006 2:54 pm
Normal RouteSolo.