Great TR & a perfect quote to top it off (I might have to borrow that one). I'm jealous. IMHO, there's nothing like the intense focus and freedom you get from soloing. Way to commit!
and great route photos too. Thoughtfully composed and introspective. Congrats on this great climb and kudos to your eloquent writing contribution for your SP peers to behold. Nicely done, sir.
"Somehow I channeled my other problems and fears, (such as graduating from college soon, not being able to climb harder than I was, and a particular girl that I had been on a long roller-coaster ride with for some time now) into representing the Grand Teton as well." Funny how so many climbs (often more dangerous than the climber usually will do) are channels for the frustrations of relationships.
You might find yourself doing this again sooner than you thought :)
You should check out some of the Cascade scrambles that involve some 'easy' technical stuff thrown in as well- North Sis, Broken Top, Mt. Washington, 3 Fingered Jack... While the climbing's not hard, the rock is utter crap. This adds an exciting element to the mix!
Read some of Josh's early (for the website) exploits- interesting reads.
Fun read. Glad your luck & skills weren't surpassed by conditions, ego & bad luck. Be safe & happy climbing in the future.
Yeah, guess I should create a route page for my 'unique' line! I hope I wasn't on the black face, and pretty sure I would have soiled myself if I was! I would love to go back and do the entire route, roped of course.
I was really blessed with good weather too, this could have turned much more epic had there been bad weather. Sounds like you had an awesome time, and I am glad that you did the upper sans cord, that must have been a great experience. I cannot even imagine trying any of this in the cold, or in the winter. Maybe some day...
Thanks for the comment and the read. Happy climbing.
Dan
p.s. it's a secret how I got my job... ok, it was really just luck and having an interest in geology.
I was on that exact ledge early this july. there was slow team just beginning to lead it when Seth and I got there. We turned back and went higher to wall street. It was the large vertical crack below the black face. WOW you rock, I think it was at least 5.6-5.7. good job, but scary. It's funny, Wall street is very difficult to make out from below, it almost melts into the mountain until one gets higher up. I too thought this ledge was wall Street at first.
Well I guess we both have a score to settle with both the lower and upper Exum!
I'm having trouble figuring out where you went. Sounds like you picked the ledge that ends at the bottom of pitch 3 on lower exum, climbed to the wall street ledge and switched to the owen spalding. Which means you soloed the black face. Props. My partner told me my face was so white he thought I would pass out when I led it.
To tell you the truth, as written in my report, I have no clue where I was. I definately was on the lower exum, and it seems like that large ledge that ran across the face was the only ledge there. I know I hit wall street because it looked familiar and by then I was seeing other people. Decided to continue on because I knew what the Owen Spalding route was like up top. I was pretty freaked the whole time though. Looks like I did solo the Black Face, I cannot think of anything else that is up there. Thanks for the comment, I will most definately climb safe. Have a good one,
Really enjoyed reading about your solo climbing adventure-I've had a short one myself-only problem I ran into a snake and well-I'll solo again, but free solo might be awhile. I totally agree with the way free soloing feels-I climb better without a rope myself than with one. Keep on rockin'
Thanks Thanks for the inspiration, iv just started my journey into climbing. Any bit of knowledge and insight is golden. I appreciate what you have shown here. Dan Mickelson
You captured most of the things I feel when I solo, including how I sometimes stumble around off route. I've been looking for beta for solo-ing the upper exum, and viola, here it is. The GT has been in my top 10 targets since the '70's. Very well written
fossana - Jul 30, 2007 7:18 pm - Hasn't voted
excellent workGreat TR & a perfect quote to top it off (I might have to borrow that one). I'm jealous. IMHO, there's nothing like the intense focus and freedom you get from soloing. Way to commit!
climbxclimb - Jul 30, 2007 9:04 pm - Voted 10/10
Congratulations!....for the great achievement! and well written report!
Aaron Johnson - Jul 30, 2007 10:42 pm - Hasn't voted
Well writtenand great route photos too. Thoughtfully composed and introspective. Congrats on this great climb and kudos to your eloquent writing contribution for your SP peers to behold. Nicely done, sir.
Gareth - Jul 30, 2007 10:44 pm - Voted 10/10
Strong WorkThat's a hellova climb you made! So, does you mom know?
littlefrantz - Jul 31, 2007 12:58 am - Hasn't voted
!Dan, that's impressive. Congrats -- what a great personal victory.
Diggler - Jul 31, 2007 12:37 pm - Voted 9/10
Nice read"Somehow I channeled my other problems and fears, (such as graduating from college soon, not being able to climb harder than I was, and a particular girl that I had been on a long roller-coaster ride with for some time now) into representing the Grand Teton as well." Funny how so many climbs (often more dangerous than the climber usually will do) are channels for the frustrations of relationships.
You might find yourself doing this again sooner than you thought :)
You should check out some of the Cascade scrambles that involve some 'easy' technical stuff thrown in as well- North Sis, Broken Top, Mt. Washington, 3 Fingered Jack... While the climbing's not hard, the rock is utter crap. This adds an exciting element to the mix!
Read some of Josh's early (for the website) exploits- interesting reads.
Fun read. Glad your luck & skills weren't surpassed by conditions, ego & bad luck. Be safe & happy climbing in the future.
mt_daydream - Jul 31, 2007 10:57 pm - Voted 10/10
Well written!Nice introspective TR!
jclements - Aug 2, 2007 12:11 am - Hasn't voted
nice, manThanks for the TR. Inspiration.
Dan Dalton - Aug 2, 2007 9:33 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Upper ExumYeah, guess I should create a route page for my 'unique' line! I hope I wasn't on the black face, and pretty sure I would have soiled myself if I was! I would love to go back and do the entire route, roped of course.
I was really blessed with good weather too, this could have turned much more epic had there been bad weather. Sounds like you had an awesome time, and I am glad that you did the upper sans cord, that must have been a great experience. I cannot even imagine trying any of this in the cold, or in the winter. Maybe some day...
Thanks for the comment and the read. Happy climbing.
Dan
p.s. it's a secret how I got my job... ok, it was really just luck and having an interest in geology.
rasgoat - Aug 5, 2007 1:03 pm - Voted 10/10
Nice Report!I was on that exact ledge early this july. there was slow team just beginning to lead it when Seth and I got there. We turned back and went higher to wall street. It was the large vertical crack below the black face. WOW you rock, I think it was at least 5.6-5.7. good job, but scary. It's funny, Wall street is very difficult to make out from below, it almost melts into the mountain until one gets higher up. I too thought this ledge was wall Street at first.
Well I guess we both have a score to settle with both the lower and upper Exum!
Ralph
Eleutheros - Aug 17, 2007 5:08 pm - Voted 10/10
Great TR Captain SoloYou have my admiration Dan. Be careful out there - climb on.
-Danny
PS Can you please remove this TR as a "parent" of Grand Teton and attach it as a trip report. Thanks.
Dan Dalton - Aug 17, 2007 7:39 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Great TR Captain SoloThanks bro, and I have romoved this as a parent and re-attached it as a TR. Thanks for the heads up, must have been in a rush.
Dan
midwestpaul - Aug 21, 2007 3:38 pm - Hasn't voted
"Tricky Beta? Forget to ask"I'm having trouble figuring out where you went. Sounds like you picked the ledge that ends at the bottom of pitch 3 on lower exum, climbed to the wall street ledge and switched to the owen spalding. Which means you soloed the black face. Props. My partner told me my face was so white he thought I would pass out when I led it.
Climb Safe.
Dan Dalton - Aug 21, 2007 6:36 pm - Hasn't voted
Re:To tell you the truth, as written in my report, I have no clue where I was. I definately was on the lower exum, and it seems like that large ledge that ran across the face was the only ledge there. I know I hit wall street because it looked familiar and by then I was seeing other people. Decided to continue on because I knew what the Owen Spalding route was like up top. I was pretty freaked the whole time though. Looks like I did solo the Black Face, I cannot think of anything else that is up there. Thanks for the comment, I will most definately climb safe. Have a good one,
Dan
Snowpuppy - Sep 19, 2007 8:02 pm - Voted 10/10
AWESOME!!!!Really enjoyed reading about your solo climbing adventure-I've had a short one myself-only problem I ran into a snake and well-I'll solo again, but free solo might be awhile. I totally agree with the way free soloing feels-I climb better without a rope myself than with one. Keep on rockin'
zeroforhire - Oct 15, 2007 1:07 pm - Hasn't voted
wowawesome trip report! Props to you!
Dan Dalton - Oct 15, 2007 1:38 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: wowThank you very much.
Dan
221wyo - Jul 12, 2011 2:23 am - Hasn't voted
GoalThanks Thanks for the inspiration, iv just started my journey into climbing. Any bit of knowledge and insight is golden. I appreciate what you have shown here. Dan Mickelson
alpine345 - Jan 19, 2012 12:32 am - Voted 9/10
connectionYou captured most of the things I feel when I solo, including how I sometimes stumble around off route. I've been looking for beta for solo-ing the upper exum, and viola, here it is. The GT has been in my top 10 targets since the '70's. Very well written