Page Type:
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Route |
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Lat/Lon:
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47.56670°N / 14.63330°E |
Route Type:
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Big Wall |
Season:
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Summer, Fall |
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Time Required:
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Most of a day |
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Rock Difficulty:
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5.7 (YDS) |
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Difficulty:
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UIAA V+,A0 |
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Approach
From Haindlkar hut (1121m) follow the signs to "Peternpfad". Follow the Peternpfad until it crosses the big gorge, where the climbing (UIAA I-II) starts. Now still follow the Peternpfad until you come back to the ground of the big gorge. Cross the gorge 5m below the giant block, where the Peternpfad enters the ground of the gorge. Traverse via a ledge towards the edge of the buttress, where you will find a bolt. From here you can see a short dihedral 30m above you, which will lead you to the edge (2 hours from the hut).See also this foto to get an idea of the route.
Route Description
A belay on the first head of the buttressClimbing height 2000 feet, 21 to 25 pitches, dependent on where you belay.
Climb through the short dihedral (see approach) and then follow a ledge to the right until you reach the edge of the buttress. Follow the edge until you come to the big terrace.
From here climb up to the right until you reach the big traverse. Now upwards and then slightly left, following the possibilities, to the crux called Hein-crack.
After the crack to the right and then follow the possibilities back to the left until you reach the edge again.
Now follow more or less the edge, you can't miss it. The last pitches are easier again until to the exit on the ridge.
Essential Gear
8 to 12 quickdraws. A selection of 5 to 10 small to midsize nuts. Usually there are enough bolts and pitons in the route for belays, there are also holes in the rock where you can put ribbons through. A helmet is an absolute must.Descent
View to the edgeFor descending use the Dachlgrat/Peternpfad(3 hours to Haindlkar-hut), or go only until Peternscharte and follow the hiking trail to Heß-hut (2 hours)
From Peternpfad great backviews to the buttress and to the Dachl northface are possible.