East Face

Approach

Hike the PCT from Ebbetts Pass 3.5 miles north to Raymond Meadow. Leave the trail when almost due east of the peak.

Route Description

The lower part of the East Face is scrub, turning to talus, turning steep and loose talus in the upper sections. There are several chutes that can be used on the East Face to climb up between the pinnacles and crags to the Sierra Crest south of the highpoint. These chutes are extremely loose, but not to steep to be truly dangerous. Exercise caution if in a group.

The trick is to climb over to the west side, and then navigate around the west side to the north side of the summit. If you aren't sure if you've traversed north far enough, you probably haven't as the highpoint is the furthest north of several competing points. There is an interesting class 3 crack that rises on the west side between the two summit pinnacles, but it will not get you to the summit. You must continue around to the north side.

The north side provides a nice class 3 ramp rising up the final 100 feet to the summit. Along the way one encounters the exposed crux that requires traversing along with your hands. Above one encounters a mild knife-edge with easy walking.

Essential Gear

None needed.