Sentiero delle Bocchette Alte

classification

starting point : Rif. Tuckett - 2272 m
ending point : Rif. Alimonta - 2580 m
top point : southern shoulder of Cima Brenta - 3020 m
time requested : 6h
signs : 305
difficulty : medium-high
hardness : medium-high
exposition : high

overview

The via ferrata "Bochette Alte" (what means "high passes") is a highlight of the Brenta routes. Here you can meet everything what Brenta is famous for: the dreamlike rock flanks that give a perfect contrast to the green hills around the blue Molveno Lake at one side and the sparkling white of the glaciers of Adamello on the other side, and the famous horizontal ledges, sometimes comfortable, sometimes scaring narrow above huge upright walls. And if you are able to do some easy but exposed climing without cables you can climb Cima Brenta, second highest mountain of the group, in addition.

Via delle Bocchette Alte is considered as the most demanding of the cable routes of the Brenta. This not so much because of the difficulty of a special section - but the route is long, and reaches higher altitude than other routes.

first part

From Tuckett hut (2272 m) you first you have to reach Bocca di Tuckett pass (2648 m) in 1 h climbing the lower Brenta glacier. Snow can be hard early in the morning, then crampons may be necessary.
Along the north ridge of Cima Brenta (3150 m) the route gains height quickly. It is well-marked and secured, without bigger difficulties. After 1 h the route reaches "Cengia Garbari", a broad ledge of scree, cutting the east flank of Cima Brenta at a height of about 3000 m, which is a really "panorama street".

Cima Brenta

When you are exactly east of Cima Brenta summit, a cairn (2954 m) marks the ascent to this second highes mountain of the Brenta. There are some red spots that you can follow, but no cables. The rocks are not difficult (UIAA II), but sometimes a bit exposed. So you have to be experienced to climb and go down again without belaying. In any case it exeeds the demands of the via ferrata.

second part

The Cengia Garbari ends at a smaller rocky ledge from which you descend by a ladder to a steep gully that is mostly filled with snow or even ice. In case that here the fixed cables are teared off (as it happens somes years because or rock fall) you better turn. Normally there are steps in the snow and a cable to click in.
The route remains exposed. It crosses further gullies but there are always cables or ladders. After many ups and downs you reach the southern shoulder of Cima Brenta (3020 m). Next point to reach is Spallone di Massodi (3004 m on the german map, others have 2998 m). It looks near, but first you have to cross Bocca Alta di Massodi pass (2950 m). Behind this excellent point for a rest the route falls very steep down to Bocca Bassa di Massodi pass (2790 m).
Here you have to decide:

last part #1

the original route traverses Cima di Molveno (2917 m). After the last rocks it's a short hike to NW to the near Alimonta hut. 6,5 h from Tuckett hut

last part #2

much more demanding is "Sentiero Oliva Detassis". Very exposed ladders (one of them a little more than just upright!) help down into a wild corner with the Vedretta die Brentei glacier. Having reached this solid soil, you just have to go around a rocky corner to get to Alimonta hut (2591 m). 6 h from Tuckett hut

Essential Gear

Harness and a set for a via ferrata with two biners.

Even in the summer couloirs that have to be crossed have snow or even ice. Therefore an ice ice axe can be useful. But normally there should be a good track. Guidebooks recommend crampons and even a rope. With suitable conditions this is not necessary. The glaciers on foot of the rocks normally don't cause problems - these were my experiences. But a friend of mine did it in 2003 ealry summer and he had to wait long in the morning until the snow was soft enough to climb to Tuckett pass. He wished he had carried crampons, he told me.

best time

For safe cimbing the route must mainly be free of snow. In normal years this cannot be expected before July

Images

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